how many watts?

BudBud Chesterfield, Va
edited April 2004 in Hardware
I am gonna buy a new power supply for my spare machine and was wondering how mnay watts to get. It specs are:

amd 1900+ w/ zalman "flower heatsink"
shuttle a35n ultra (nforce2 ultra)
256mb pc3200
9000 pro
hauppage wintv pvr-250
hercules muse 5.1 dvd sound card
d-link wirless G pci card
dvd-rom
80GB maxtor hd
windows xp
3 case fans

so how many watts do you guys think I need. It just sits next to my tv (hooked up) and I remote desktop in to it to get files and do any windows stuff.

Comments

  • rykoryko new york
    edited April 2004
    400w antec from newegg for $49 will be more than enough....

    http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-912&depa=1

    you could get away with 350w as long as it's a quality brand
  • MediaManMediaMan Powered by loose parts.
    edited April 2004
    Power supplies: the shocking truth.
  • BudBud Chesterfield, Va
    edited April 2004
    do you guys think i could use a 300
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited April 2004
    If its an Antec or other good PSU.
  • RWBRWB Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    You should be able to get a good 500W at least foor less than 100. I bought my TTGI 520W PSU for $86 at directron. Go for the best, never cheap out on a PSU, even if it's a good quality one.
  • MediaManMediaMan Powered by loose parts.
    edited April 2004
    Bud,


    You'll find that 300 watts isn't enough. You've got a lot of components and you should got with at least 400 watts. 500 may be a bit overkill.

    Here is a 4 psu roundup that will give you a bit more information.

    http://www.short-media.com/review.php?r=233

    ANTEC is more expensive but has the reputation of dependable power on the rails. ANTEC isn't the "best" but not many have complained about them. You don't need to get the most expensive power supply...but don't get the cheapest either.
  • muddocktormuddocktor
    edited April 2004
    Bud,you can save a bit of money by getting a refurb psu from newegg. They have a big selection of psu's in the refurb section, including a lot of Enermax and some Fortron-Source (same as Sparkle) psu's in stock. Hurry though as they won't last long.
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited April 2004
    That system would run just fine on a 300w Antec, Channel Well Tech. (CWT), Enermax, or PC Power & Cooling power supply (Fortron Source [FSP]/SparklePower 300w PSUs could probably handle it as well). HOWEVER, 300w would not give you much headroom for expansion. I'd go for a 350w+ Antec, Enermax, PC Power & Cooling, FSP/Sparkle, or CWT PSU, if I were you.
  • BudBud Chesterfield, Va
    edited April 2004
    well i dont use it for a main box it just captures tv thats why i was trying to go cheap and was hoping i dodnt need to many watts cause i can get a compusa 300 watt cheap
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited April 2004
    And if you run a 300w generic psu, you're asking for problems. Everything from general instability to having the power supply die and take everything else in the system with it. I've seen generic "550w" power supplies that put out 11.2v on the +12v rail with a 20a load on it. 11.2v is WAY out of spec.

    So it's up to you:
    Are you going to use a $20 power supply and run the risk of having to replace a $400 or whatever system, or are you going to spend an extra $20-$60 on a GOOD power supply?
  • TheBaronTheBaron Austin, TX
    edited April 2004
    and even if the wattage is high enough, a $20 power supply is waaaaaaaaay too cheap. you get what you pay for. if your hearing isn't good enough to pick up dreaded psu high pitched noises then id get something dependable - antec or enermax (thrax lives and dies by compusa 600w's, that'd be great too)
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited April 2004
    Also, look at this pic that I just took of 2 of my power supplies (it's actually 2 separate pics that I took and then photochopped, so that's why the background doesnt' quite match). Anyhow, the bottom one I'm going to throw away here in a second, because I've got what I need off of it.

    The top one is a 400w Channel Well board that came out of an Antec PP403-X 400w PSU (Channel Well OEMs some of Antec's PSUs). The bottom one is a "550w" generic power supply. In fact, it's the same brand and and model as the one I blew while drawing <300w of power.

    Compare the size of the heatsinks, the size and density of components on the boards, etc. This is why you buy a good power supply:
    psus.jpg 124.9K
  • floppybootstompfloppybootstomp Greenwich New
    edited April 2004
    Handy Power Supply Wattage Calculator

    All Antec here, Truepower, 330W to 480W, for different machines.
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited April 2004
    That's not accurate. How do I know? The reccommended minimum PS for my dual 2500 system would be 524w. I've run it off a 400w Antec without any problems at all. No instabilities, great voltages, etc.
  • floppybootstompfloppybootstomp Greenwich New
    edited April 2004
    Geeky1 wrote:
    That's not accurate. How do I know? The reccommended minimum PS for my dual 2500 system would be 524w. I've run it off a 400w Antec without any problems at all. No instabilities, great voltages, etc.

    You're probably right, Mr Geeky Sah :D

    I do think it tends to be a little over cautious with it's estimates. Think of it as a 'rough guide' then.

    There are power supplies and there are power supplies. Those that can deliver well over their rated current and those that short change on their quoted Watts.

    I've actually run a full rig on a generic 300W piece of crap PSU with no probs at all.

    However, I have found that those machines where I've fitted a quality PSU with Watts to spare definitely seem to run more stable and, how shall we say? 'Perkier'. Yep, perkier, that's a good word :)
  • CreepCreep Hell Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    I have a setup that's very close to his and I only use a 350 Antec PSU

    AMD 2200+
    3 WD HDD's
    Radeon 900 Pro
    CD-RW
    SLK-900 with TT SF
    Tornado for a case fan and some kinda intake fan
    A floppy drive
    Nexus Fan Controller because that tornado is fricking loud


    I used to use the same PSU when I OC'd my 1700+ and never had any problems, the +5 kinda dipped off alittle, but it was completely stable @ 2GHz. So yea, a good 350w PSU is all he needs.
  • MJOMJO Denmark New
    edited April 2004
    Geeky1 wrote:
    Also, look at this pic that I just took of 2 of my power supplies (it's actually 2 separate pics that I took and then photochopped, so that's why the background doesnt' quite match). Anyhow, the bottom one I'm going to throw away here in a second, because I've got what I need off of it.

    The top one is a 400w Channel Well board that came out of an Antec PP403-X 400w PSU (Channel Well OEMs some of Antec's PSUs). The bottom one is a "550w" generic power supply. In fact, it's the same brand and and model as the one I blew while drawing <300w of power.

    Compare the size of the heatsinks, the size and density of components on the boards, etc. This is why you buy a good power supply:

    There is nothing in there?
    Where are all the components in the cheap PSU? :eek2:
    Well it explains why my Antec TruePower 430W weighs twice the weight of my old Aopen 300W.

    According to the calculator I need 387W PSU, guess I have a little extra then. ;D
    Might come in handy if the new GFX (nVidia Geforce 6800) draws 160W of power as reported.(dunno if it's true though) :eek2:
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited April 2004
    Yup. This is where the adage that "a heavier power supply is (usually) better" comes from. Heavier = more, better, and/or larger components & heatsinks which translates to a better power supply. You should see a PC Power & Cooling 510w PSU's board.

    //Edit

    Found a pic
    http://www.maximumoc.com/img/hardware/pcpowerandcooling_turbocool510/inside.jpg
  • MJOMJO Denmark New
    edited April 2004
    Not much space in there, eh?

    Indeed weight=better is true for power supplies.
    I was rather suprised to feel the difference between my two PSU's.

    Note: My 300W Aopen (Fortron-Sparkle) contains more and larger components compared to that *cough* crappy *cough* 500W PSU.

    EDIT: WTF the PCB in the (Fortron-Sparkle) Aopen PSU says PC Power & Cooling, now I am confused? :rant:
    Maybe that's why it did rather well all things considered.
    It has a power on problem though, you have to push the button a hundred times or short the PSU a couple of times to turn it on.
  • LeonardoLeonardo Wake up and smell the glaciers Eagle River, Alaska Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    Indeed weight=better....
    Oh that's just great! :rant: Now Intel is gonna pick up on this. Supposedly, Intel will be moving away from the Megahertz rating, just as AMD did two years back. Next thing you know, the TV adds, CompUSA, Best Buy, et al will be gushing about Intel's heavy CPUs! Sheesh! :rolleyes:
  • edcentricedcentric near Milwaukee, Wisconsin Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    My rule for well equiped systems is that I don't care what the total rating is, it must have at least 200W on the 3.3 + 5 lines at the same time. If that draw isn't rated I won't buy it. I have one 350W and one 475, both are rated at 205W on the 3.3+5. Go figure.
    Just remember, if a cheap PSU goes under volt on you you can fry everything in the box.
  • Straight_ManStraight_Man Geeky, in my own way Naples, FL Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    MJO wrote:
    Not much space in there, eh?

    Indeed weight=better is true for power supplies.
    I was rather suprised to feel the difference between my two PSU's.

    Note: My 300W Aopen (Fortron-Sparkle) contains more and larger components compared to that *cough* crappy *cough* 500W PSU.

    EDIT: WTF the PCB in the (Fortron-Sparkle) Aopen PSU says PC Power & Cooling, now I am confused? :rant:
    Maybe that's why it did rather well all things considered.
    It has a power on problem though, you have to push the button a hundred times or short the PSU a couple of times to turn it on.

    Sticky Power-good circuit, or bad switch, probably BOTH. Also, faintly possibly, NOT the RIGHT Power-On switch if this is an older case. New ones are much more momentary in power cycle through switch, the toss high tells motherboard power-good that the PSU can be live, board does the rest-- if switch does not cycle fast enough, board kills power-on request. Very old switches LOCKED on, or locked off....

    Yes, PC Power&Cooling private labels and sells innards to other who case and distribute, unless csomeone repaired it with abetter innards than expected... :D But, know the first is true. AND AOpen has had a rep for getting DECENT private label stuff in thier PSUs-- the kind of lable you do not see until you open the PSU and look inside, VERY CAREFULLY and AFTER it is discharged at least 90% of the way. I have seen a PC Power & Cooling PSU circuitry board in an AOpen, though.

    Part of that weight is large robust transformers, part large caps. BOTH GOOD. I am running the Prescott on a 425 Watt CWT PSU now, it weighs almost as much as the 550 W Codegen it replaced. Weight is not all, but it is a good start to a rough guess. PSUs should not be mostly air inside-- the should be denser mass mostly.... :D;)

    THeSMJ-- note that more modern PSUs use fewer of the older huge transformers than older ones-- lots of the watts are NOT 12 V, they are 3.3 and 5 V. So folks have used a Primary transformer, then used smaller ones to break vlotage down, and lots of not-so-heavy-as-they-used-to-be caps inside also. Less corrossive chemicals (less, not NOT corrossive enough to be dangerous if Cap is blown), thinner shells of better steel than were needed before.

    John D.
  • MJOMJO Denmark New
    edited April 2004
    Ageek wrote:
    Sticky Power-good circuit, or bad switch, probably BOTH. Also, faintly possibly, NOT the RIGHT Power-On switch if this is an older case. New ones are much more momentary in power cycle through switch, the toss high tells motherboard power-good that the PSU can be live, board does the rest-- if switch does not cycle fast enough, board kills power-on request. Very old switches LOCKED on, or locked off....

    Yes, PC Power&Cooling private labels and sells innards to other who case and distribute, unless csomeone repaired it with abetter innards than expected... :D But, know the first is true. AND AOpen has had a rep for getting DECENT private label stuff in thier PSUs-- the kind of lable you do not see until you open the PSU and look inside, VERY CAREFULLY and AFTER it is discharged at least 90% of the way. I have seen a PC Power & Cooling PSU circuitry board in an AOpen, though.

    Part of that weight is large robust transformers, part large caps. BOTH GOOD. I am running the Prescott on a 425 Watt CWT PSU now, it weighs almost as much as the 550 W Codegen it replaced. Weight is not all, but it is a good start to a rough guess. PSUs should not be mostly air inside-- the should be denser mass mostly.... :D;)

    THeSMJ-- note that more modern PSUs use fewer of the older huge transformers than older ones-- lots of the watts are NOT 12 V, they are 3.3 and 5 V. So folks have used a Primary transformer, then used smaller ones to break vlotage down, and lots of not-so-heavy-as-they-used-to-be caps inside also. Less corrossive chemicals (less, not NOT corrossive enough to be dangerous if Cap is blown), thinner shells of better steel than were needed before.

    John D.

    The button is fine, I am using it with my present Antec PSU with no problems.

    The Aopen PSU has not been repaired in any way, I have exchanged the fan though.
    The PSU hasn't been turned on for 4-6 months, it should be rather safe to peek inside.
    Actually the internals look like a hybrid between the CWT and the PC Power & Cooling Geeky posted images of.
    Some of the components are smaller though.
Sign In or Register to comment.