look carefuly at geocities /gregua/windas all answers are there, if windas have a problem u skipped a step... it work great I installed it over 20 times on different sites.
I have a sony GDM-5411 21" inch well that is a nice picture and frankly much but much more vivid than any LCD I came across. my picture is not stable it have this little dance on the x axis, maybe a phase issuse between H.sync and V.sync. any1???
I too have a Dell P1110 with excessive brightness. I bought the ECS circuit and installed the DAS software but I am having a problem loading the parameters values after opening the Viewer under Help ->Expert. The left side Viewer List appears but the right side which should show the parameters is blank. Any ideas?
I too have a Dell P1110 with excessive brightness. I bought the ECS circuit and installed the DAS software but I am having a problem loading the parameters values after opening the Viewer under Help ->Expert. The left side Viewer List appears but the right side which should show the parameters is blank. Any ideas?
I managed to use windas with ECS only when I power on the screen, if I wait the screen more than a sec or two for some reason it won't work.. (well infact I built the ecs and I use the screen 5V for Vcc, if I wait more than a sec the screen cut off the 5v supply so no ECS working here.)
try it
Email me directly with any questions pertaining to the resistor fix. Some more playing with it and the picture it now amazing...Glad I decided to do this... Chorodeski@officeinteriors.ca
OK, for those of you wondering about the resistor fix for this brightness issue here is the low down. If you are at all handy I would recommend this over the Sony software and cable fix…So I recently purchased a Dell P1110 with the Trinitron tube is it. Got it second hand for 40$....Wahoo…When I fist set it up it looked pretty good, then I started to notice just how bright this thing really was even with the brightness on 0. The colors were washed out and the blacks were more like blue-greys. So I did a little research and found the resistor replacement fix. I consider myself to be fairly handy so I figured; why not give it a try. The reasoning behind this resistor replacement is that it controls the black levels and tends to loose value over the years. Now, the general consensus with this fix is that the resistance should be between 4.7 and 6.8 Mohm (that’s MEGA ohms) and that the lower the resistance the darker it will be. I made a few phone calls and found a guy locally that had these resistors. I stopped in to see him and got 4.7, 5.6, and 6.8 Mohm resistors. He gave them to me for free. Firstly, to take the monitor apart you have to take the two screws off the lower back of the machine, then, on the top front of the monitor there are two tabs that need to be pressed in to pop the cover off. These tabs are a bit finicky and decent pressure is required. I used a butter knife. Now that the cover is off you must also take off the metal protector over the rear board. To do this there are 5 screws. Easy enough, now, as per the link you can see what needs to be done. Locate the resistor points between R459. This is where the surgery has to take place. First things first, you have to break the circuit going to the original resistor. This is a pain because its on the other side of the board. My wire cutters couldn’t get in there to snip it. I had to use my dremel with a cutting wheel to cut one of the resistor terminals. Removing the resistor or cutting both sides is not necessary. Just cut one terminal and make sure it isn’t touching. Now the rest of the work can be done on the other (easy) side of the board. There should be enough solder on the board already to connect the new resistor. I figured, given the Mhom range, I would try the one in the middle. So I tried the 5.6Mohm. Put everything back together, and what a difference, however, it was a little too dark. I took it all back apart and replaced that resistor with the 6.8Mohm one. Put it back together and it was great. This is most likely the one you want to use. I then did a color restore from the front panel of the monitor and let me tell you….I don’t think there is a nicer monitor out there…a flat panel wouldn’t come close to having such a rich display as this does. The blacks now are pretty much like the monitor is off and the colors are fantastic (6500K). I do some gaming on this monitor and it’s just beautiful. I hope this information helps. If you would like any additional info please email me and I will be happy to help out. Happy soldering!!
I found my problem, I didn't have the patch files in the
Windas/Windas directory...Doh.
So I finally have
Windas
up and running...so I plug the 4-pin adapter that I bought into the monitor and I go to connect the other end...to what? I had thought that I would have to unplug the 15-pin monitor cable and plug it into the adapter cable...but of course, it's a 9 pin connection. I didn't see any info on this in the tutorial (or I didn't recognize it)...and I've tried to find something in the 40 some pages of this thread...but couldn't.
Forgive me, I'm a bit ignorant about this...but what cable do I need to connect this adapter to my computer...and where/what would I plug it into on my computer?
Okay, so I have installed Windas and patched it... for a minuet there I wasn't even able to get windas to attempt to connect to the monitor, but that problem seems to have gone away... it may return if this problem is solved, however. I have the RS232 <> TTL cable which I ordered on ebay. The problem is, any time I connect the cable to my Dell P1110 one of two things happens. Either Windas tells me it cannot connect to the monitor, or the monitor will not turn on, that is, the green light goes amber. I assume when the cable is connected correctly, the light goes amber and I cannot see the screen. Amazingly frustrating... can someone please offer some suggestions on how to get the cable connected AND access windas to fix the brightness on this monitor, while actually being able to see the screen?!
Okay, so I have installed Windas and patched it... for a minuet there I wasn't even able to get windas to attempt to connect to the monitor, but that problem seems to have gone away... it may return if this problem is solved, however. I have the RS232 <> TTL cable which I ordered on ebay. The problem is, any time I connect the cable to my Dell P1110 one of two things happens. Either Windas tells me it cannot connect to the monitor, or the monitor will not turn on, that is, the green light goes amber. I assume when the cable is connected correctly, the light goes amber and I cannot see the screen. Amazingly frustrating... can someone please offer some suggestions on how to get the cable connected AND access windas to fix the brightness on this monitor, while actually being able to see the screen?!
Make sure you monitor is connected to a computer through the data cable and everything will work. I has the same problem
goodluck
Make sure you monitor is connected to a computer through the data cable and everything will work. I has the same problem
goodluck
I don't really understand what you mean.... the problem is not being able to connect the RS232 <> TTL cable to the monitor without one of two things happening... the green light goes amber and the screen will not come on, or Windas tells me it can't connect to the monitor. I don't know if I'm connecting it wrong when the light goes amber, or if there is a problem with Windas and that's the reason it won't connect to the monitor when I have the cable connected. Maybe I just need to know exactly how to connect the cable to the four pin header on the back of my monitor. Looking at many pictures of these converter cables, and making absolutely sure that this is the converter cable I needed, I see that there are six holes on the end of the cable and only a four pin header to connect it to. No one seems to have mentioned this as out of the ordinary on the various websites I've looked through about these converter cables, and specifically using them with windas to fix a Dell P1110, so I assuemd it would just align in the center of the holes. Do I need some kind of 6-hole to 4-hole converter?
the pinout is like that (from the Dell service manual scematics) :
Tx - will be at 5V when monitor is working
Rx - will be at 0V
Vcc - is the %v supply to the circuit.
Gnd - 0V.
there are only 2 options to connect the cable try them both while the screen is on and recieving data. ( I mean there is something on screen your desktop or whatever).
the pinout is like that (from the Dell service manual scematics) :
Tx - will be at 5V when monitor is working
Rx - will be at 0V
Vcc - is the %v supply to the circuit.
Gnd - 0V.
there are only 2 options to connect the cable try them both while the screen is on and recieving data. ( I mean there is something on screen your desktop or whatever).
I have tried connecting it in every possible way. Centered on the 6 holes, starting at the top, starting at the bottom, and turned the thing upsidedown and tried the same positions that way... I simply cannot tell if the cable is connected correctly because one of two things always happens... either the monitor clicks off and the light turns amber, or windas tells me it can't connect to the monitor, and i should check the bus line. Do I need a converter of some kind? Can someone out there please tell me exactly how they connected an RS232 <> TTL converter cable to a dell p1110 and their pc, and if one end of their converter cable indeed had 6 holes and they connected it to the four pin header on the back of the monitor?
Joined forum to say wow thanks it fixed my monitor Dell P1110 screen . Thanks guys made a modified and rewritten tutorial to save user some time , and a Rs232 to TTL converter guide too . !!
I have Dell P1130 and it has a few problems. One is that at the top left corner there is a very noticeable misconvergence, but I was able to fix that (at least for some resolutions - it still is noticeable in DOS) thanks to you. I used dynamic convergence in Windas.
However, there is another problem. Instead of dark grey, the monitor displays dark green. I was able to compensate by reducing gren gamma to 0.9 (in powerstrip), but that doesn't work in games. Is it possible to fix my mnitor using windas (somehow reduce the gamma of green color)?
Hi all - I have an old Sony 21" CPD-540 with the over-brightness problem and diagonal lines, was about to throw it out, then I Googled and found the resistor trick, and then this Slipkid/P991 thread. I had downloaded all the software and was going to order a cable...but since I still was unclear on the adjustments, and couldn't do anything more last nite anyway, I read some more of the thread.
I didn't read it all, but did come across the recommendation several times to try "image restore" on the menu, a function I didn't know existed. Did that, problem solved - monitor looks like new now. Colors are vibrant and blacks are black.
At color temp 6500º, bright 50 and cont 80, it matches this guy's test pattern pretty well (not allowed to post link: search "Your monitor is too bright" from furry dot org in Au)
While it's a bit brighter than he recommends, to my eye it looks best when color mode is set to "sRGB", which auto-adjusts everything for you.
(not allowed to post link: ref: Sony Technical Digest, Volume 3, November 2000, ISSN 1521-5180 - "sRGB Color Switching Control")
Once again I'm impressed with the engineers who design Sony CRTs.
Maybe an admin should make this image restore thing a sticky up front of the thread, before a lot of people go to great lengths they don't need to...?
There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...
Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.
---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......
Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...
I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...
Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...
The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.
I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.
The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.
With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.
A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...
Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!
psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help
I registered just so I could say thanks for this excellent thread of great info, wish I'd seen it months ago before I binned a fixable Sony G500!
Also wanted to add that in searching for some sensible priced components in the UK I found this supplier of an integrated USB-serial-TTL level cables with virtual com port drivers available on the same site: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/FT232RModules.htm
There are several versions of the cable, the TTL-232R-WE version is bare wires at the TTL end so you can fit whichever type of plug you need for your monitor.
Price is about £11+p&p, or around $23+p&p in the US. Shipping is available worldwide & I noticed that alternative sellers have the cable - just google "TTL-232R" or "TTL-232R-WE"
Maplin have been recommended as a potential component supplier in the UK, but they are a little expensive, so I'd also like to suggest RS components & Farnell as alternate component suppliers: http://www.rs-components.com/index.html http://www.farnell.com/
Both these suppliers are international, so the links are to the regions index
I have IBM P260. The brightness was too high, so i did everything like at hutzelman's web page.
I've soldered 5.1 MOhm resistor instead of 10 MOhm.
Now brightness level is pretty good, but there's another problem: EVERYTHING BECAME VERY RED !!!
"Color Return" function didn't help.
I've lowered red bias to zero, but greys are still reddish.
Brightness controll affects only red brightness (when I increase brightness, picture becomes red, and when decrease - it becomes green-blue).
Some people on this forum had the same problem, but I haven't found the solution.
Help me, please, to fix this bug.
So after all this what is the best model to get if your going to buy another one? Did they ever manufacture any with problems resolved? I like my HP P1110 because you can adjust the G2 without the windas or the resistor mod by simply entering the service mode and turning it down. As far as Im aware the other models dont have this feature? But my 2 year old has scratched the screen somehow and I may end up getting another I was thinking of a P1130 But there is no service mode is there? Im also looking at other 21" CRTs from the same era Like the Mitsubishi Diamondtrons. Anybody know anything about them? They are supposed to be even better than the sonys. Iv also herd about the LaCie Electron Blue II 22 crt. Which is supposed to be one of the best monitors ever. Anybody got any info on these? Like common poblems and stuff? Iv seem them on ebay including a large anti-glare hood for £120. Also has anybody herd of the Sony Artisan http://bermangraphics.com/tips/artisan.htm
I promised an updated howto some months ago, but haven't delivered it.
I wanted to address some recent posts.
Why bother with resistors or windas? What about color return?
Color return has a split reputation on this thread. Some people report it solved their problems, others report it made their problems worse or caused them all together.
Many , if not most, people on this thread and elsewhere have said that they think this whole brightness thing is a software problem. They think it is aging compensation gone wrong.
However, the problem has happened on monitors without color return. (Maybe they have some software aging compensation.)
I've also reset my monitor's MPU to factor default safe settings. As far as I k now, this gets rid of any memory. After calibrating it from scratch, I still have a 'bright warm-up' problem.
If you read the Chassis Training Manuals, you can see that warm up compensation is not software controlled. (Yes the software can tell when you've waited long enough to warm-up, but the chassis training manual does describe a purely hardware implemented warm-up compensation mechanism)
Whatever case, be it hardware or software, color return didn't work for everybody.
What does work for everybody, is lowering the G2, be it by service menu (most convenient), resistor, or software.
(As time drags on, the G2 needs to be lowered again, and so, this isn't a prefect solution)
This still doesn't fix the bright warm-up problem, or screen zooming/ geometric distortion. This problem is still an open book, please read the Chassis Training Manuals, and service manuals.
How do I access my service menu?
It's usually mentioned in the service manual. Sometimes people mention it online. I think it's per chassis, not per model, but I may be wrong.
If you can access it, you don't need resistors or windas. You can then do almost anything windas does.
What's DDC, why is it relevant?
DDC is a clock and data line from your video card to your monitor. Some LCD panels can be user adjusted and shop serviced from it.
Mitsubishi/NEC monitors don't use a 'Windas Cable', they use the DDC lines.
Hopefully there is some way to make arbitrary adjustments on Sony Trinitron monitors. They do support a 2 way DDC bus, so there must be some reason for that.
My color is off, what do I do about it?
If you can, adjust RBG Bias/Cuttoff for darker colors, and Drive/Gain for brighter colors.
That's really all you can do. If you can't do this through the OSD, you'll need windas.
You can also mess with your video cards LUT, but that is just working around the problem
Thanks IanM for finding cheaper suppliers, and a USB solution. I'll add them to my page if you don't mind.
I screwed up my HP p1110 by hitting the initialize EEprom control in the service menu. Now Iv not got a clue how to get it back to where it was. Everything setting was wiped. The color is completely off now!. Im assuming you can control everything in the service menu that u can do in windas so is there a default set of values i could use to get it back to standard picture and then adjust it from their? Also since iv screwed up the p1110 I picked up a NEC Multisync FE1259 in what looks like immaculate condition for the sum of £15. Anybody know anything about these? its a Diamondtron tube and looks very bright and vibrant colors but the lower right seems blurry. anybody got any idea how to fix this?
I screwed up my HP p1110 by hitting the initialize EEprom control in the service menu. Now Iv not got a clue how to get it back to where it was. Everything setting was wiped. The color is completely off now!. Im assuming you can control everything in the service menu that u can do in windas so is there a default set of values i could use to get it back to standard picture and then adjust it from their? Also since iv screwed up the p1110 I picked up a NEC Multisync FE1259 in what looks like immaculate condition for the sum of £15. Anybody know anything about these? its a Diamondtron tube and looks very bright and vibrant colors but the lower right seems blurry. anybody got any idea how to fix this?
I was messing with the service mode on my HP1110 trying to adjust the geometry as I just couldn't get it to look perfectly square. Anyway I pressed the initialize eeprom button by mistake and it reset everything back to factory defaults! And now I cant get it back to the way it was! I don't know how calibrate it. Im not going to go to the expense of getting a color meter or anything like that. Is there a default set of settings or anything that I could use to get it back to the standard as if it just came out of its box? I know how good this monitor can look dam!
I'm afraid the best you can do is get a .dat from some one else. I wasn't even aware the service menu could do such a thing.
Also I just purchased a NEC Multisync FE1250 for £15 In what seem great condition. I just bought it due to the price and what happened to my p1110. Do you know anything about this monitor?
I know there is a program to adjust NEC monitors, similliar to windas, except it uses the DDC lines in the monitor signal cable itself. One of them is called SpectraView.
Its a good monitor very bright and vibrant looking but i noticed that the focus seems to be a little poor at the lower right where the little icon tray is. The icon color seems blurred a little. Do you know if this is a focus issue or just an aging problem or the fact that its simply inferior to the p1110?
If the color is a blurred, like R G and B are not aligned, then you're describing mis convergence. Not sure if it supports dynamic convergence, I have yet to read any NEC/Mitsubisihi service manuals. Some tubes have magnets taped to them to help with corner convergence. Magnets don't do a thing about focus though. Landing adjustments help with discoloration.
The monitor has loads of controls but none seem to have any effect on this! I can also access the service menu but I can see no obvious focus control, I wouldn't know where to begin!
Any advice will be appreciated mate!
You may want to try SpectraView II. There is a bootleg copy floating around the net. It's more for color calibration though. I haven't tried it myself, if you do, please post about it. All you need is the software, as I mentioned, it uses the DDC lines.
I think its the actual focus of the monitor not convergence because this monitor has basic and advanced convergence settings in the normal osd it make no difference. Ill look for that software.
Hey I have an idea! Does anybody with an HP P1110 fancy going through service mode and writing down all the values then posting them up here ? It would let me attempt to fix mine.
P991 DELL SONY: what is the correct procedure for setting black level on the p1110 assuming everything is working normally?. I tried moving the vertical centering down so that there is a black space at the top of the screen then displaying a black picture then adjusting the brightness down until it blends in but this results in loosing too much detail in photos where I know you can see more.
The geometry is all off the setting also, I dont think Im going to be able to set it correctly. Its gonna need someone with a signal generator and the rest of the equipment. Unless somebody with a good monitor is willing to tell me what each of the following is set too on their monitor?
Min contrast: 50 62%
max contrast: 255 100%
G2 49 19%
Red Black level: 14 5%
Green black level: 13 5%
Blue black level: 25 3%
Red amp: 131 51%
Green amp: 112 42%
Blue amp: 130 39%
BCL adjust: 127 49%
Sharpness menu
Vertical conv 127 49%
Horizontal conv 127 49%
Moire 0 0%
Top and bottom edges 127 49%
top right corner 127 49%
bottom right corner 127 49%
top left corner 127 49%
bottom left corner 123 49%
BL Correction : ON
Save BL input value
BL input 44%
memory settings submenu
type: 0
custom color: 1
DDC : INT. (ST7275)
Initialize eeprom
INT Burn in test
Comments
I have a sony GDM-5411 21" inch well that is a nice picture and frankly much but much more vivid than any LCD I came across. my picture is not stable it have this little dance on the x axis, maybe a phase issuse between H.sync and V.sync. any1???
I managed to use windas with ECS only when I power on the screen, if I wait the screen more than a sec or two for some reason it won't work.. (well infact I built the ecs and I use the screen 5V for Vcc, if I wait more than a sec the screen cut off the 5v supply so no ECS working here.)
try it
I will try to do a write with all the steps once the cable is here!
mike
Mike
So I finally have
Forgive me, I'm a bit ignorant about this...but what cable do I need to connect this adapter to my computer...and where/what would I plug it into on my computer?
with this cable you will need to change the order of cables
you will need to connect the cable to a computer "com" port, then use "windas" to modify the firmware.
you can find all the information on geocities com/gregua/windas/
just read through!
Mike
Make sure you monitor is connected to a computer through the data cable and everything will work. I has the same problem
goodluck
I don't really understand what you mean.... the problem is not being able to connect the RS232 <> TTL cable to the monitor without one of two things happening... the green light goes amber and the screen will not come on, or Windas tells me it can't connect to the monitor. I don't know if I'm connecting it wrong when the light goes amber, or if there is a problem with Windas and that's the reason it won't connect to the monitor when I have the cable connected. Maybe I just need to know exactly how to connect the cable to the four pin header on the back of my monitor. Looking at many pictures of these converter cables, and making absolutely sure that this is the converter cable I needed, I see that there are six holes on the end of the cable and only a four pin header to connect it to. No one seems to have mentioned this as out of the ordinary on the various websites I've looked through about these converter cables, and specifically using them with windas to fix a Dell P1110, so I assuemd it would just align in the center of the holes. Do I need some kind of 6-hole to 4-hole converter?
Tx - will be at 5V when monitor is working
Rx - will be at 0V
Vcc - is the %v supply to the circuit.
Gnd - 0V.
there are only 2 options to connect the cable try them both while the screen is on and recieving data. ( I mean there is something on screen your desktop or whatever).
I have tried connecting it in every possible way. Centered on the 6 holes, starting at the top, starting at the bottom, and turned the thing upsidedown and tried the same positions that way... I simply cannot tell if the cable is connected correctly because one of two things always happens... either the monitor clicks off and the light turns amber, or windas tells me it can't connect to the monitor, and i should check the bus line. Do I need a converter of some kind? Can someone out there please tell me exactly how they connected an RS232 <> TTL converter cable to a dell p1110 and their pc, and if one end of their converter cable indeed had 6 holes and they connected it to the four pin header on the back of the monitor?
its so many pages and i coulnt find a good tutorial how to do the ECS cable
Im not very good at reading the diagram at the p991 page so anyone has a more n00b guide so i can make the cable?
Thanks
I didnt used the 10UuF , its really necesssary for it to work?
Im getting the check your connection message on windas
EDITED:
Got it working
Changed the saved dat with hex workshop.... changed the G2 value from 157 to 135, working fine and as new
Enjoy myblog.bloggybloggydotcom/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/
I have Dell P1130 and it has a few problems. One is that at the top left corner there is a very noticeable misconvergence, but I was able to fix that (at least for some resolutions - it still is noticeable in DOS) thanks to you. I used dynamic convergence in Windas.
However, there is another problem. Instead of dark grey, the monitor displays dark green. I was able to compensate by reducing gren gamma to 0.9 (in powerstrip), but that doesn't work in games. Is it possible to fix my mnitor using windas (somehow reduce the gamma of green color)?
Sorry for my English.
I didn't read it all, but did come across the recommendation several times to try "image restore" on the menu, a function I didn't know existed. Did that, problem solved - monitor looks like new now. Colors are vibrant and blacks are black.
At color temp 6500º, bright 50 and cont 80, it matches this guy's test pattern pretty well (not allowed to post link: search "Your monitor is too bright" from furry dot org in Au)
While it's a bit brighter than he recommends, to my eye it looks best when color mode is set to "sRGB", which auto-adjusts everything for you.
(not allowed to post link: ref: Sony Technical Digest, Volume 3, November 2000, ISSN 1521-5180 - "sRGB Color Switching Control")
Once again I'm impressed with the engineers who design Sony CRTs.
Maybe an admin should make this image restore thing a sticky up front of the thread, before a lot of people go to great lengths they don't need to...?
I ran into 3 situations along the way...
First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...
http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/
There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...
Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.
---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......
Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...
I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...
Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...
The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.
I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.
The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.
With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.
A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...
http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/
Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!
psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help
Until next time...
--CHRIS!!!
I registered just so I could say thanks for this excellent thread of great info, wish I'd seen it months ago before I binned a fixable Sony G500!
Also wanted to add that in searching for some sensible priced components in the UK I found this supplier of an integrated USB-serial-TTL level cables with virtual com port drivers available on the same site:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/FT232RModules.htm
There are several versions of the cable, the TTL-232R-WE version is bare wires at the TTL end so you can fit whichever type of plug you need for your monitor.
In case ayone wants to see if there is a reason why it would be unsuitable the schematic & PDF data sheet is here:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataSheets/Modules/DS_TTL232R.pdf
Price is about £11+p&p, or around $23+p&p in the US. Shipping is available worldwide & I noticed that alternative sellers have the cable - just google "TTL-232R" or "TTL-232R-WE"
Maplin have been recommended as a potential component supplier in the UK, but they are a little expensive, so I'd also like to suggest RS components & Farnell as alternate component suppliers:
http://www.rs-components.com/index.html
http://www.farnell.com/
Both these suppliers are international, so the links are to the regions index
I have IBM P260. The brightness was too high, so i did everything like at hutzelman's web page.
I've soldered 5.1 MOhm resistor instead of 10 MOhm.
Now brightness level is pretty good, but there's another problem: EVERYTHING BECAME VERY RED !!!
"Color Return" function didn't help.
I've lowered red bias to zero, but greys are still reddish.
Brightness controll affects only red brightness (when I increase brightness, picture becomes red, and when decrease - it becomes green-blue).
Some people on this forum had the same problem, but I haven't found the solution.
Help me, please, to fix this bug.
P.S. sorry for my bad english.
I promised an updated howto some months ago, but haven't delivered it.
I wanted to address some recent posts.
Why bother with resistors or windas? What about color return?
Color return has a split reputation on this thread. Some people report it solved their problems, others report it made their problems worse or caused them all together.
Many , if not most, people on this thread and elsewhere have said that they think this whole brightness thing is a software problem. They think it is aging compensation gone wrong.
However, the problem has happened on monitors without color return. (Maybe they have some software aging compensation.)
I've also reset my monitor's MPU to factor default safe settings. As far as I k now, this gets rid of any memory. After calibrating it from scratch, I still have a 'bright warm-up' problem.
If you read the Chassis Training Manuals, you can see that warm up compensation is not software controlled. (Yes the software can tell when you've waited long enough to warm-up, but the chassis training manual does describe a purely hardware implemented warm-up compensation mechanism)
Whatever case, be it hardware or software, color return didn't work for everybody.
What does work for everybody, is lowering the G2, be it by service menu (most convenient), resistor, or software.
(As time drags on, the G2 needs to be lowered again, and so, this isn't a prefect solution)
This still doesn't fix the bright warm-up problem, or screen zooming/ geometric distortion. This problem is still an open book, please read the Chassis Training Manuals, and service manuals.
How do I access my service menu?
It's usually mentioned in the service manual. Sometimes people mention it online. I think it's per chassis, not per model, but I may be wrong.
If you can access it, you don't need resistors or windas. You can then do almost anything windas does.
What's DDC, why is it relevant?
DDC is a clock and data line from your video card to your monitor. Some LCD panels can be user adjusted and shop serviced from it.
Mitsubishi/NEC monitors don't use a 'Windas Cable', they use the DDC lines.
Hopefully there is some way to make arbitrary adjustments on Sony Trinitron monitors. They do support a 2 way DDC bus, so there must be some reason for that.
My color is off, what do I do about it?
If you can, adjust RBG Bias/Cuttoff for darker colors, and Drive/Gain for brighter colors.
That's really all you can do. If you can't do this through the OSD, you'll need windas.
You can also mess with your video cards LUT, but that is just working around the problem
Thanks IanM for finding cheaper suppliers, and a USB solution. I'll add them to my page if you don't mind.
I'm afraid the best you can do is get a .dat from some one else. I wasn't even aware the service menu could do such a thing.
I know there is a program to adjust NEC monitors, similliar to windas, except it uses the DDC lines in the monitor signal cable itself. One of them is called SpectraView.
If the color is a blurred, like R G and B are not aligned, then you're describing mis convergence. Not sure if it supports dynamic convergence, I have yet to read any NEC/Mitsubisihi service manuals. Some tubes have magnets taped to them to help with corner convergence. Magnets don't do a thing about focus though. Landing adjustments help with discoloration.
You may want to try SpectraView II. There is a bootleg copy floating around the net. It's more for color calibration though. I haven't tried it myself, if you do, please post about it. All you need is the software, as I mentioned, it uses the DDC lines.
Sorry I couldn't help more :/
The geometry is all off the setting also, I dont think Im going to be able to set it correctly. Its gonna need someone with a signal generator and the rest of the equipment. Unless somebody with a good monitor is willing to tell me what each of the following is set too on their monitor?
mine is the following:
HP P1110 1600 x 1200
75hz
service menu/geometry
raster: 127 49%
width 146 57%
horizontal centering: 74 58%
height: 89 70%
vertical centering: 63 49%
Pincushion: 42 33%
Pincushion balance: 63 49%
Trapezoid: 63 49%
Orthogonality: 63 49%
S correction: 13 10%
C correction: 39 30%
E/W corner: 65 51%
Tilt 127 49%
Vertical Dynamic focus: 63 49%
GREYSCALE Menu
Min contrast: 50 62%
max contrast: 255 100%
G2 49 19%
Red Black level: 14 5%
Green black level: 13 5%
Blue black level: 25 3%
Red amp: 131 51%
Green amp: 112 42%
Blue amp: 130 39%
BCL adjust: 127 49%
Sharpness menu
Vertical conv 127 49%
Horizontal conv 127 49%
Moire 0 0%
Top and bottom edges 127 49%
top right corner 127 49%
bottom right corner 127 49%
top left corner 127 49%
bottom left corner 123 49%
BL Correction : ON
Save BL input value
BL input 44%
memory settings submenu
type: 0
custom color: 1
DDC : INT. (ST7275)
Initialize eeprom
INT Burn in test