Hmmm...you said that if you perform a Color Return the image is over-bright...
So...these monitors grow brighter as they age not dimmer, so a Color Return will re-set the G2 value back to the original value of 163 and, for heavily used monitors this value will cause them to be excesively bright, right ?
Hmmm...you said that if you perform a Color Return the image is over-bright...
So...these monitors grow brighter as they age not dimmer, so a Color Return will re-set the G2 value back to the original value of 163 and, for heavily used monitors this value will cause them to be excesively bright, right ?
What G2 value you use on your both p991's ?
One is at 90, the other is at 94. The one that's at 94 is at a brightness of 56, the other is at a brightness of 62.
The voltage for the G2 is supposed to be around 520 volts. I don't have a voltmeter that goes higher than 500 volts so I couldn't measure the voltage of the G2 when I got the monitors. I know the voltage was higher than 520 volts because the screen was so bright. If you look around page 8 or 9 of this thread and read some of P991 DELL SONY's posts you'll get a lot of good information from them. I learned a few useful facts from them.
By way, did you get the back cover off your p1130 to access the service port? If so, how did you get it off? I tried getting the back cover off my p991 and it's like it's glued on or something.
By way, did you get the back cover off your p1130 to access the service port? If so, how did you get it off? I tried getting the back cover off my p991 and it's like it's glued on or something.
Yes. I even created a few "holes" in the chasis to access the ECS port and the 2 focus pots .
You have to turn it with its "face" down and detach the stand first. There are 2 large screws, one on each lower side of the monitor. After that you must pry open with a screwdriver the 2 "clips" on the sides of the monitor and then pull the cover off while the monitor still sits with the screen facing the ground (put a towel or something between the screen and the ground so as not to ruin it).
For the 2 focus pots had to cut a little from the Faraday cage that sits over the tube and electronics.
One is at 90, the other is at 94. The one that's at 94 is at a brightness of 56, the other is at a brightness of 62.
Mine has a G2 value of 163 and I keep the contrast to 100 and brightness to 70. Also I have the Variable color mode activated with 11000K color temperature.
This way the contrast (black vs white) is amazing :bigggrin: and the colors are very very intense almost life like.
One other thing, very important...when I perform a Color Return NOTHING changes in the image quality. I even saved and compared the DAT after a Color Return with another one saved just prior to doing the Return function and they are identical...so I guess my monitor is "brand new" circa 2002 .
I even created a few "holes" in the chasis to access the ECS port and the 2 focus pots .
I guess I was lucky. I didn't have to drill any holes. There is a little cover on the left side of the monitor at the bottom. I just popped the cover off and it exposes the ECS port. The only problem with this is it's a pain to get the cable plugged in since the plug is deep in the monitor.
One other thing, very important...when I perform a Color Return NOTHING changes in the image quality.
I did notice when I first got my monitors, I tried color return and the screen did several shades of grey for about 10 seconds before it switched back to the desktop. After that I tried it again but it did it for about 3 seconds and nothing changed.
I guess when you select color return the monitor will do a test before making any changes. If it detects something is wrong, then it will make its adjustments until the colors are within specs. If nothing is wrong, then it won't adjust anything and goes back to the desktop.
I did notice when I first got my monitors, I tried color return and the screen did several shades of grey for about 10 seconds before it switched back to the desktop. After that I tried it again but it did it for about 3 seconds and nothing changed.
I guess when you select color return the monitor will do a test before making any changes. If it detects something is wrong, then it will make its adjustments until the colors are within specs. If nothing is wrong, then it won't adjust anything and goes back to the desktop.
I noticed that if I turn the brightness all the way up to 100 and then perform a Color Return it takes much longer, about 25 seconds compared to only 10 seconds it takes when I have the brightness set to 70 (my preference).
Nontheless, nothing changes in the image quality.
G2 factory default on my F500R was 139. I had to bump it down to 110 to completely get rid of the red glow after warmup.
If someone out there has WinDAS data sets for the F500R please let me know. Especially unmodified sets. I'd like to compare them to each other and to mine. Thanks..
@MikeinCA I don't have any Sony branded monitors so I am no help.
I do have a question about my p991: Does anyone no how to do a landing adjustment through WinDAS? The lower right corner of my screen is really annoying.
<cite class="ic-username"></cite>MikeinCA
Here try to use mine, it's the most comprehensive I've found on the net.
You'll have to use dllregsvr.exe in the main folder to register MSFLXGRD.OCX then select Manual in Configuration and then your monitor.
After that exit and re-enter Windas.
Well there is no difference in the landing adjustments between Windas and OSD menu, at least on my monitor, only that you can screw things easier from Windas...
Since there is a corner that you wish adjusted, didn't the OSD help with anything ?
If not, I doubt that you can do better through Windas .
In one ocasion I got rid of a nasty color smear that formed by my fault when playing with landing in Windas by repeated degaussing with a 15 min pause window.
I general when it comes to landing I always stay away from Windas and do it by OSD.
Since there is a corner that you wish adjusted, didn't the OSD help with anything ?
That's just it, there is no adjustment through the OSD menu. The adjustment is there for WinDAS but it just says adjust such and such but there are no sliders.
Then I believe there are no Landing adjustments for your monitor...
The only other way would be to adjust the purity rings inside your monitor. They are glued so you must make a note of their current position. It's quite tricky I admit it...
Have you tried moving the monitor or make it face another direction ? Have you tried to degauss it regulary ?
If these do not help it might need to be manually degaussed. Any TV repair shop cand do that...
Regards !
<cite class="ic-username"></cite>MikeinCA
Here try to use mine, it's the most comprehensive I've found on the net.
You'll have to use dllregsvr.exe in the main folder to register MSFLXGRD.OCX then select Manual in Configuration and then your monitor.
After that exit and re-enter Windas.
I've registered on this forum due to my weekend nightmare with my otherwise perfect FW900 (sold to me Dec 2008 by Unkle Vito, not sure if you guys are aware of this CRT guru).
Over two years of use, this "like new, A++" FW900 has been very good to me up until the last few months when I began to notice how the blacks are not as deep as they used to be, and how the sharpness is very uneven throughout the screen and text is not as razor sharp as they were in the past.
So, like I did with all my other Trinitron CRTs (I have two P1110, and another FW900), I took a chance and used "image restoration". Why didn't I do this sooner? I was afraid that the calibration Vito did for me when he shipped this thing from LA up to my home in Canada would be lost.
The restoration was completed and what I was left with is 1) sharper text, as sharp as any modern LCD 2) deep blacks rather than the "grey-blacks".
However, I am now faced with an equally awful problem. My setting before the restore was 30-40 brightness, and 80 to 85 contrast. After the restore, using the same settings, my screen is too dim, too damn dark. At 30-40, it's hard to even make out what's on desktop, though the contrast and blacks are great.
So now I have to run between brightness 70 to 80 to get decent gamma so I have good image details without the screen being washed out.
What do you guys think might be the problem? Did the image restore over-compensate for however moderate "over bright" issue that I had and turned down the G2 voltage to an extremely low level? IIRC, the default G2 for these sets are around 140-150. Maybe the restoration took it down very far so now the front brightness pot needs to be turned up way high?
Either way I have a pair of Windas cable on the way. Hopefully I will have this figured out. And I hope this is only an issue with G2, that being it's simply too low and giving dimmed images, rather than some sort of accelerated tube decay or something more complex and out of my control.
Let me know what you guys think. I know these Sony units do get brightened up over time, but I haven't found any posts online about image restoration over-doing their G2 adjustment (if indeed restoration plays with G2 and G2 is the culprit).
Just to add to the lists of clues/symptoms, my "warm up" time on this unit has been like 20 to 30 minutes before I can see decent texts but now after the restoration, I can use it as soon as I turn it on. It used to go from overly bright to usable but now it is not overly bright when it's turned on and stays at relatively the same throughout the hours that I'd be using it. Again, I suspect image restoration fubur'ed G2 or something related to brightness.
Heh, am I the only one that sort of obsess over these monitors? These Trinitrons are getting rarer and rarer and whenever I see a high end unit or a FW900, whether it'd be in some DVD's behind the scenes or in a movie or a TV show, I'm always extra curious to loop the video again. Guess you can't blame me, you'd need to blame the industry for allowing inferior flat panel technology to replace CRTs.
I agree with you. I think it is something with the G2. However I get the opposite effect from image restoration (color return). Instead of the screen getting darker, the screen gets incredibly bright. So bright I might need more than just sunglasses. I would try increasing the G2 and see if that doesn't help. I recently had a problem with my p991 (the brightness was very high and adjusting the G2 had no effect) and it has convinced me there may be another setting that also adjusts brightness. I am searching for that setting and I have not found it yet.
Just like the CRT was shitty back when it was first introduced flatscreens are the same way right now. Wait at least 20-30 yrs and there may be a flatscreen as good as the Trinitron...maybe even better. But for now I am sticking with the Trinitron.
<cite class="ic-username"></cite>MikeinCA
Here try to use mine, it's the most comprehensive I've found on the net.
You'll have to use dllregsvr.exe in the main folder to register MSFLXGRD.OCX then select Manual in Configuration and then your monitor.
After that exit and re-enter Windas.
Well there is no difference in the landing adjustments between Windas and OSD menu, at least on my monitor, only that you can screw things easier from Windas...
Since there is a corner that you wish adjusted, didn't the OSD help with anything ?
If not, I doubt that you can do better through Windas .
In one ocasion I got rid of a nasty color smear that formed by my fault when playing with landing in Windas by repeated degaussing with a 15 min pause window.
I general when it comes to landing I always stay away from Windas and do it by OSD.
Hey man, thanks for uploading your WinDAS. I've tinkered with it in the past few days on my Vista x64 machine but I was never able to successfully register the ocx/activex file. Now it looks like it's working correctly, but all I need is to hook up the usb to serial cable.
If I do a color return aka "Image Restoration" nothing changes in my case (proof that the tube is new).
P1130 uses a Sony G520 Trinitron tube and in my case it takes about 30 min for the image to become jaw-dropping !
Sorry what do you mean by a new tube? Do you mean that a high brightness setting via the OSD would mean that a monitor is newer vs. a mid level brightness setting (like 40-50)? I guess your G2 voltage must be pretty low as well if you need to set your brightness at 70.
I agree with you. I think it is something with the G2. However I get the opposite effect from image restoration (color return). Instead of the screen getting darker, the screen gets incredibly bright. So bright I might need more than just sunglasses. I would try increasing the G2 and see if that doesn't help. I recently had a problem with my p991 (the brightness was very high and adjusting the G2 had no effect) and it has convinced me there may be another setting that also adjusts brightness. I am searching for that setting and I have not found it yet.
Just like the CRT was shitty back when it was first introduced flatscreens are the same way right now. Wait at least 20-30 yrs and there may be a flatscreen as good as the Trinitron...maybe even better. But for now I am sticking with the Trinitron.
I will know what's up with my G2 soon enough. There could be another setting to control the brightness but from all I've read it's always related to the G2.
So the general consensus is that these Sony CRTs get brighter with age? That would that whatever regulates the G2 voltage does not really decay overtime, rather it is there to compensate for the natural dimming of the other components of the tube. I dunno if that theory makes any sense.
Trinitron tubes get brighter while ageing. The Image Restoration function restores everything except OSD values, including voltages, to default values. In my case I do not perceive any difference while doing this.
An older Trinitron tube would look very washed out on a G2 value of 163 which is the Default as far as I know for all g520 tubes.
In my case, even with a brightness of 70, the picture has great dynamic range, meaning blacks are dead black and whites are very intense.
The ocx file I told you to register is neccesary to activate the Model Select submenu in Set Up, at least for my OS which is WinXP.
If you can select your particular monitor from the database you do not need to register it.
Trinitron tubes get brighter while ageing. The Image Restoration function restores everything except OSD values, including voltages, to default values. In my case I do not perceive any difference while doing this.
An older Trinitron tube would look very washed out on a G2 value of 163 which is the Default as far as I know for all g520 tubes.
In my case, even with a brightness of 70, the picture has great dynamic range, meaning blacks are dead black and whites are very intense.
The ocx file I told you to register is neccesary to activate the Model Select submenu in Set Up, at least for my OS which is WinXP.
If you can select your particular monitor from the database you do not need to register it.
Yeah, before I used the registration utility I couldn't pull up the model list. I can start the program fine, but when I click on model sel., it didn't do anything. I'm sure it works fine now, I just can't look at a table of settings without a dat file from my monitor.
What happens when you put your monitor at say, 90 brightness? Is the picture washed out?
You said that restoration only puts the G2 value back at default.
So what does it mean when I had brightness in the past at 30-40 with good image quality but slightly graying-blacks, and after restore, my brightness needs to be near 80?
Maybe that my G2 was at default value in the past and was actually much higher than what my tube needs?
Or maybe my G2 was, for whatever reason, above default?
PS. When I have the WinDAS cable, do I just config the program as "COM1" (or whatever it will be) and put the second box to manual?
Hmmm, something is wrong. For whatever reason when I try to load or save a dat file (again, I haven't got a WinDAS cable yet, just trying to figure this out), the program will close.
I will know what's up with my G2 soon enough. There could be another setting to control the brightness but from all I've read it's always related to the G2.
So the general consensus is that these Sony CRTs get brighter with age? That would that whatever regulates the G2 voltage does not really decay overtime, rather it is there to compensate for the natural dimming of the other components of the tube. I dunno if that theory makes any sense.
I read somewhere that somebody thought the voltage regulator for the electron guns wears out and the voltage gets higher and higher and that's where the bright screen comes from. If that's the case then the proper way to fix these monitors is to repair that voltage regulator. However there are alternatives and the proof is this website. For people who want to be cheap about it, like me, they would prefer to go either the WinDAS route or the resistor route.
Comments
So...these monitors grow brighter as they age not dimmer, so a Color Return will re-set the G2 value back to the original value of 163 and, for heavily used monitors this value will cause them to be excesively bright, right ?
What G2 value you use on your both p991's ?
The voltage for the G2 is supposed to be around 520 volts. I don't have a voltmeter that goes higher than 500 volts so I couldn't measure the voltage of the G2 when I got the monitors. I know the voltage was higher than 520 volts because the screen was so bright. If you look around page 8 or 9 of this thread and read some of P991 DELL SONY's posts you'll get a lot of good information from them. I learned a few useful facts from them.
Yes. I even created a few "holes" in the chasis to access the ECS port and the 2 focus pots
You have to turn it with its "face" down and detach the stand first. There are 2 large screws, one on each lower side of the monitor. After that you must pry open with a screwdriver the 2 "clips" on the sides of the monitor and then pull the cover off while the monitor still sits with the screen facing the ground (put a towel or something between the screen and the ground so as not to ruin it).
For the 2 focus pots had to cut a little from the Faraday cage that sits over the tube and electronics.
Mine has a G2 value of 163 and I keep the contrast to 100 and brightness to 70. Also I have the Variable color mode activated with 11000K color temperature.
This way the contrast (black vs white) is amazing :bigggrin: and the colors are very very intense almost life like.
One other thing, very important...when I perform a Color Return NOTHING changes in the image quality. I even saved and compared the DAT after a Color Return with another one saved just prior to doing the Return function and they are identical...so I guess my monitor is "brand new" circa 2002
I guess when you select color return the monitor will do a test before making any changes. If it detects something is wrong, then it will make its adjustments until the colors are within specs. If nothing is wrong, then it won't adjust anything and goes back to the desktop.
I noticed that if I turn the brightness all the way up to 100 and then perform a Color Return it takes much longer, about 25 seconds compared to only 10 seconds it takes when I have the brightness set to 70 (my preference).
Nontheless, nothing changes in the image quality.
If someone out there has WinDAS data sets for the F500R please let me know. Especially unmodified sets. I'd like to compare them to each other and to mine. Thanks..
I do have a question about my p991: Does anyone no how to do a landing adjustment through WinDAS? The lower right corner of my screen is really annoying.
Here try to use mine, it's the most comprehensive I've found on the net.
You'll have to use dllregsvr.exe in the main folder to register MSFLXGRD.OCX then select Manual in Configuration and then your monitor.
After that exit and re-enter Windas.
http://rapidshare.com/files/436651965/Sony_WinDAS.rar
Hello again theothernewguy !
Well there is no difference in the landing adjustments between Windas and OSD menu, at least on my monitor, only that you can screw things easier from Windas...
Since there is a corner that you wish adjusted, didn't the OSD help with anything ?
If not, I doubt that you can do better through Windas
In one ocasion I got rid of a nasty color smear that formed by my fault when playing with landing in Windas by repeated degaussing with a 15 min pause window.
I general when it comes to landing I always stay away from Windas and do it by OSD.
The only other way would be to adjust the purity rings inside your monitor. They are glued so you must make a note of their current position. It's quite tricky I admit it...
Have you tried moving the monitor or make it face another direction ? Have you tried to degauss it regulary ?
If these do not help it might need to be manually degaussed. Any TV repair shop cand do that...
Regards !
Don't worry the file is clean.
I've registered on this forum due to my weekend nightmare with my otherwise perfect FW900 (sold to me Dec 2008 by Unkle Vito, not sure if you guys are aware of this CRT guru).
Over two years of use, this "like new, A++" FW900 has been very good to me up until the last few months when I began to notice how the blacks are not as deep as they used to be, and how the sharpness is very uneven throughout the screen and text is not as razor sharp as they were in the past.
So, like I did with all my other Trinitron CRTs (I have two P1110, and another FW900), I took a chance and used "image restoration". Why didn't I do this sooner? I was afraid that the calibration Vito did for me when he shipped this thing from LA up to my home in Canada would be lost.
The restoration was completed and what I was left with is 1) sharper text, as sharp as any modern LCD 2) deep blacks rather than the "grey-blacks".
However, I am now faced with an equally awful problem. My setting before the restore was 30-40 brightness, and 80 to 85 contrast. After the restore, using the same settings, my screen is too dim, too damn dark. At 30-40, it's hard to even make out what's on desktop, though the contrast and blacks are great.
So now I have to run between brightness 70 to 80 to get decent gamma so I have good image details without the screen being washed out.
What do you guys think might be the problem? Did the image restore over-compensate for however moderate "over bright" issue that I had and turned down the G2 voltage to an extremely low level? IIRC, the default G2 for these sets are around 140-150. Maybe the restoration took it down very far so now the front brightness pot needs to be turned up way high?
Either way I have a pair of Windas cable on the way. Hopefully I will have this figured out. And I hope this is only an issue with G2, that being it's simply too low and giving dimmed images, rather than some sort of accelerated tube decay or something more complex and out of my control.
Let me know what you guys think. I know these Sony units do get brightened up over time, but I haven't found any posts online about image restoration over-doing their G2 adjustment (if indeed restoration plays with G2 and G2 is the culprit).
Heh, am I the only one that sort of obsess over these monitors? These Trinitrons are getting rarer and rarer and whenever I see a high end unit or a FW900, whether it'd be in some DVD's behind the scenes or in a movie or a TV show, I'm always extra curious to loop the video again. Guess you can't blame me, you'd need to blame the industry for allowing inferior flat panel technology to replace CRTs.
Just like the CRT was shitty back when it was first introduced flatscreens are the same way right now. Wait at least 20-30 yrs and there may be a flatscreen as good as the Trinitron...maybe even better. But for now I am sticking with the Trinitron.
You said it !
http://www.oldtellys.co.uk/otcolour.html - about color purity adjustment
christpunchers,
On my Dell P1130 (which is new) I have:
G2 Value: 163 (Default)
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 70
Color Temperature: 11000K
If I do a color return aka "Image Restoration" nothing changes in my case (proof that the tube is new).
P1130 uses a Sony G520 Trinitron tube and in my case it takes about 30 min for the image to become jaw-dropping !
Hey man, thanks for uploading your WinDAS. I've tinkered with it in the past few days on my Vista x64 machine but I was never able to successfully register the ocx/activex file. Now it looks like it's working correctly, but all I need is to hook up the usb to serial cable.
Sorry what do you mean by a new tube? Do you mean that a high brightness setting via the OSD would mean that a monitor is newer vs. a mid level brightness setting (like 40-50)? I guess your G2 voltage must be pretty low as well if you need to set your brightness at 70.
I will know what's up with my G2 soon enough. There could be another setting to control the brightness but from all I've read it's always related to the G2.
So the general consensus is that these Sony CRTs get brighter with age? That would that whatever regulates the G2 voltage does not really decay overtime, rather it is there to compensate for the natural dimming of the other components of the tube. I dunno if that theory makes any sense.
An older Trinitron tube would look very washed out on a G2 value of 163 which is the Default as far as I know for all g520 tubes.
In my case, even with a brightness of 70, the picture has great dynamic range, meaning blacks are dead black and whites are very intense.
The ocx file I told you to register is neccesary to activate the Model Select submenu in Set Up, at least for my OS which is WinXP.
If you can select your particular monitor from the database you do not need to register it.
Yeah, before I used the registration utility I couldn't pull up the model list. I can start the program fine, but when I click on model sel., it didn't do anything. I'm sure it works fine now, I just can't look at a table of settings without a dat file from my monitor.
What happens when you put your monitor at say, 90 brightness? Is the picture washed out?
You said that restoration only puts the G2 value back at default.
So what does it mean when I had brightness in the past at 30-40 with good image quality but slightly graying-blacks, and after restore, my brightness needs to be near 80?
Maybe that my G2 was at default value in the past and was actually much higher than what my tube needs?
Or maybe my G2 was, for whatever reason, above default?
Hmmm, something is wrong. For whatever reason when I try to load or save a dat file (again, I haven't got a WinDAS cable yet, just trying to figure this out), the program will close.