Ok, I just ran WinDAS and re-loaded my backup Data file. The monitor, which is a P992, returned to nominal appearance. The OSD unlocked as soon as I clicked OK on the load screen. I then exited WinDAS and verified the OSD was still unlocked. I then powered down the monitor and removed the interface cable. When I powered back up again, the OSD was locked again!! I repeated these steps a couple of times, even loading a backup of my original dat file prior to making changes. Same result.
Of course, my problem may be unrelated to WinDAS. At least WinDAS enables me to temporarily unlock the OSD to make adjustments, if needed. I can live with that.
This very same thing was happening to me, and I succesfully tried this trick...
After the interface is connected to the monitor and the COM port, start WinDAS, backup the existing DAT file, and then load the corrected DAT file. Once the corrected DAT file is loaded, go to "Adjustments", then click on "Procedure", and then on "Final setting"; and once WinDAS confirms the input signal of 1600x1200, click OK, then as soon as the program ask you "Do you set the final values"?, then click OK, then exit WinDAS.
Without touching none of the OSD buttons, power down the monitor, and turn it off, then disconnet the interface. Wait for 3-5 minutes, then turn the unit back on, and the OSD should be unlocked.
The issue is I was not telling WinDAS to save the final setting values into the DAT file and to the EEPROM BEFORE exiting WinDAS, and that was the reason why the OSD locked up.
Try this trick... After several trials with different tricks, this one did it for me and perhaps it will do it for you, and to others who maybe experiencing the same hurdles.
My completed RS232 cable from Hobby Engineering came today, switching the cables to the correct order was easy. My G500's G2 value was 202, I'm going to try to find a good setting now. Thanks again for all the help guys!
I was wondering if someone can help me out. I have a Sony 24" W900 (different from the one posted by someone else here). It has the brightness problem and I can clearly see the retrace scan lines. There is one really noticeable white one going right across the screen.
This monitor doesn't have the 4pin connector in the back. There is a service input that looks similar to an S-Video input.
I'm trying to find the R459 to solder the resistor but I can't find it. I've uploaded some pics of the back. Please help me find where to solder the resistor.
Edit: I've attached a pic of what plugs are in the back. Most of the Dells and Sonys here have that 4pin outlet. Mine has the S-video looking plug
I think I MAY have found the resistor. Correct me if I'm wrong please! I don't have a schematic of the board. I'm just relying on the past comments on this thread. It looks like the faulty resistor is R1823 on mine(attached pic). But I don't know what type of resistor it is. It's some kind of blue bean shaped resistor?? (pic attached). Please help!!
That looks like a capacitor, I don't have the schematics to your monitor, but what you could try, is to trace back from the G2 pin on your CRT, it'll probably branch, but maybe you'll find a resistor somewher along the way.
Actually, after seing what your service port is, you shouldn't do the resistor 'fix', the resistor isn't faulty anyway, and it will throw off color return (it's probably already off, people seem to think color return is the thing that started the whole brightness problem).
Thanks for your help, but this is the fourth time I've taken the cover off and I don't see any tabs that I could remove.
What is wrong with the service port you found? That is a type of serial connector, I don't know the name, but my colorimeter uses it. It has an adapter (no circuit, just re wiring) with female end like that and a female DB9.(Incase I mixed it up , I'll add that I consider the DB9 on your computer male.)
Simply look up it's pinout and voila, it's got the same pins as the DB(DE?)9 and DB25 connectors.Actually, it probably has a +5v,grnd pair that I would think serial doesn't. But I don't remember my pinouts.
So once you find the pinout, you can probably follow the instructions un modified, or maybe, your service port puts out the signals at RS-232 levels, hence, you would need no circuit/chip.
Let us know how it goes, hopefully you can confirm whatever the case is for future readers with your type of service port.
Atleast you'll never have to take that cover off again
Hello to all, I am a french student so please excuse me for my bad english. (it’s the first time I post here).
A few months ago I get a Sony CPD E500E 21'' monitor from a friend and it had the over brightness problem. After reading about the DAS solution on this forum I build a TTL <-> RS232 cable and used an old DOS version of DAS. This version of DAS gave some error message each time I tried to save the EPROM into a file (errors in reading the data). The problem is that I still performed the 'white balance procedur' without knowing anything of the values asked to set. So I adjusted the G2 but get a monitor showing incorrect colours and becoming slightly darker when displaying a white screen.
Yesterday I found the howto from P991 DELL SONY (many thanks to him for this great work) and I get to install winDAS and to save my (now bad) EPROM into a file. I tried a second time the white balance with winDAS and the monitor now looks better but still have this problem of becoming darker when showing something white and colours could be better.
I want to use this monitor for graphics and video editing and so I want to adjust the white balance exactly. I can get a colorimeter from a friend but I don’t know how to use it with winDAS and what I should do with all this setting winDAS is asking for during the white balance procedure.
Perhaps someone (P991 DELL SONY, you said you had performed it for your monitor) can explain to me each step of the 'white balance procedure' from winDAS, how I should set the parameters and what I should measure with the colorimeter. That would be a great help for me.
As a follow up on my repairs, I would say that I resurected 1 P97 IBM and 1 21" IBM. But I still have those P97 with both "too bright problem" (that I can fix with WinDAS but I did not find (as P991 DELL SONY stated) any sync. settings in WinDAS to fix the synchro problem. Is it possible that the excessive voltage on G2 had ****ed some capacitors or something like that ?
Can anybody tell me where I could find a good book on repairing monitors and TV ? (online or paper or PDF)
As a follow up on my repairs, I would say that I resurected 1 P97 IBM and 1 21" IBM. But I still have those P97 with both "too bright problem" (that I can fix with WinDAS but I did not find (as P991 DELL SONY stated) any sync. settings in WinDAS to fix the synchro problem. Is it possible that the excessive voltage on G2 had ****ed some capacitors or something like that ?
Can anybody tell me where I could find a good book on repairing monitors and TV ? (online or paper or PDF)
Thank you again !
Lo
If you're ready for a complete education, I'd try the navy's NEETS modules. They cover CRTs and other vacume tubes, how caps,resistors,diodes etc. work. After reading it all, you should be more qualified than a repair guy. I've only read the part on CRTs in general.
Do you have the service manual for those monitors? That could probably make finding the right things easier.
I doubt the G2 can cause a problem, the more resistance, the brighter your screen gets, so it's actually got less voltage on it when it's brighter. Atleast, for that resistor people keep changing. I haven't actually studied the G2 circuit that much. It does seem to be connected to the FBT somehow, in adition to be connected to an IC which is probably controlled by DAS.
If you find any specific monitor/tv/CRT repair stuff, let us know.
Thanks.
Hello to all, I am a french student so please excuse me for my bad english. (it’s the first time I post here).
A few months ago I get a Sony CPD E500E 21'' monitor from a friend and it had the over brightness problem. After reading about the DAS solution on this forum I build a TTL <-> RS232 cable and used an old DOS version of DAS. This version of DAS gave some error message each time I tried to save the EPROM into a file (errors in reading the data). The problem is that I still performed the 'white balance procedur' without knowing anything of the values asked to set. So I adjusted the G2 but get a monitor showing incorrect colours and becoming slightly darker when displaying a white screen.
Yesterday I found the howto from P991 DELL SONY (many thanks to him for this great work) and I get to install winDAS and to save my (now bad) EPROM into a file. I tried a second time the white balance with winDAS and the monitor now looks better but still have this problem of becoming darker when showing something white and colours could be better.
I want to use this monitor for graphics and video editing and so I want to adjust the white balance exactly. I can get a colorimeter from a friend but I don’t know how to use it with winDAS and what I should do with all this setting winDAS is asking for during the white balance procedure.
Perhaps someone (P991 DELL SONY, you said you had performed it for your monitor) can explain to me each step of the 'white balance procedure' from winDAS, how I should set the parameters and what I should measure with the colorimeter. That would be a great help for me.
Many many thanks in advance for your help.
You seem to have gotten yourself into the same mess I did earlier. I changed the whitebalance without using a colorimiter, and I didn't back up my old settings, so I had exactly the same problems you are having.
Basicly, the whitebalance adjusts, depending on your monitors design (Maybe some have a different electron gun, I'm not sure)
The unified G2 voltage shared by all three guns.
Then for each color temp (9300,5000,6500):
Cutoff Max/Mins for all RGB guns (I think this means to controll the individual G1 voltages)
Drives for all RGB guns (not sure what this is exactly)
CNT_MAX_BRT (the brightest a pixel can get, not brightness, but max contrast)
CNT_MIN_BRT (The lower end of the contrast setting)
ABL (Automatic brightness limiter, "Wait for luminance to stabilize" sets both of the values below)
ABL_MAX_CNT(sets the maximum average brightness of the whole screen, explaining why the screen darkens when displaying all white. )
ABL_SHUTDOWN (When average brightness exceeds this amount (because ABL cannot limit it quickly enough) your monitor shuts down to protect itself. This illustrates the importance of properly setting your ABL.)
Windas will tell you to adjust a certain subset of values untill your colorimiter reads a certain reading in CIE xyY units. It will also tell you to display patterns, such as a 30IRE gray and a 255 RGB white, 0 RGB black,etc. It uses the mode 1024x780 for my 19" P991, maybe it will ask another mode for your monitor.
More simply, windas will tell you what the readings should be, and only let you adjust certain values at one time. It explains exactly what to do for each step.
At the end, the color return is calibrated, I'm not sure if it functions properly, it seems a bug in the color return function caused the brightness issue.
Since your ABL setting appears to be ruined, I'd suggest you manually set both ABL settings to the factory default of 255 before you do the white balance procedure again, else, the ABL will kick in when you set your CNT_MAX_BRT. When it says "wait for luminance to stabilize" don't wait very long, I've found it stabilizes very quickly. ABL is important, without it, your screen will change size when the screen is bright, this is hard on the voltage regulation. I'm not sure what type of damage can be caused, but ABL_SHUTDOWN gives a clue that it is serious.
You should use one computer to run Windas and the colorimiter, and another computer to display patterns on the monitor you are calibrating.
I'd make a howto for all of this, but, it doesn't seem like something many people end up doing, or needing a lot of help with. I haven't completely figured out what this stuff physically does yet, so once I do figure it out, I'll make a formal howto.
Good luck resetting your white balance, It's time consuming, but not hard. I got excellent results myself.In all the white tracking is very close. Setting cutoffs is difficult because colorimiters can get inacureate at lower lumininace levels (you'll know because the readings 'stick' despite changing the settings, then jump after you change them a bit more.). Don't ignore your eyes if it doesn't look right at low luminances.
If you're ready for a complete education, I'd try the navy's NEETS modules. They cover CRTs and other vacume tubes, how caps,resistors,diodes etc. work. After reading it all, you should be more qualified than a repair guy. I've only read the part on CRTs in general.
Do you have the service manual for those monitors? That could probably make finding the right things easier.
I doubt the G2 can cause a problem, the more resistance, the brighter your screen gets, so it's actually got less voltage on it when it's brighter. Atleast, for that resistor people keep changing. I haven't actually studied the G2 circuit that much. It does seem to be connected to the FBT somehow, in adition to be connected to an IC which is probably controlled by DAS.
If you find any specific monitor/tv/CRT repair stuff, let us know.
Thanks.
I'll look in that direction. Thank you very much for all your support sir !!!
No way my friend,
It has to be around 10MOhm.
It is a aprt of a voltage divider and if you put a too low resistnace in the divider, you will have a higher current in your divider and possibly problems (I don't know about the voltage) but it might produce a power above the 1/4 Watt that the resistor can bear !
Lo
Hi... Many many thanks for everyone's help on the color settings. I picked up the cable from the hobby place, fixed the pinout, and got Windas to lower the G2 voltage on my Sony CPD-E400. The retrace lines are gone and I have a color black again!
Two questions though... First, I have 2 Sony CPD-E400's.. one was washed out, the other wasn't. Ideally, the color would match on the two... It's not as easy as loading the data file from the good one onto the bad one by any chance, is it?
Also, I'm still having some color issues that I'm trying to work out. The color is excessively blue, not red enough. The Sony Color Test app shows red as having a purplish tone to it. I lowered B_DRV, raised R_DRV... same with the R_CO_MIN and R_CO_MAX and B_CO_MIN and B_CO_MAX... It's still really blue. Whites & grays come out blue, etc. Any idea what settings I should be playing with?
Xweebie gave me a .dat from another P991 which I tried on my own, it wasn't that bad a match, but it was far worse than my own adjustments, mainly in terms of convergence, color wasn't so horrible (Slight tint).
Changing the color is tricky, There are three sets of color settings, one for each color temp. Then there seems to be a 'currently selected' group of color settings.
You may have to use the OSD to re-select the color temp you are adjusting so the changes you made take efect.
So check under the = COLOR section of the .dat file. Seeing the settings for 9300 6500 5000 should give you an idea of what to do.
Hi... Many many thanks for everyone's help on the color settings. I picked up the cable from the hobby place, fixed the pinout, and got Windas to lower the G2 voltage on my Sony CPD-E400. The retrace lines are gone and I have a color black again!
Two questions though... First, I have 2 Sony CPD-E400's.. one was washed out, the other wasn't. Ideally, the color would match on the two... It's not as easy as loading the data file from the good one onto the bad one by any chance, is it?
Also, I'm still having some color issues that I'm trying to work out. The color is excessively blue, not red enough. The Sony Color Test app shows red as having a purplish tone to it. I lowered B_DRV, raised R_DRV... same with the R_CO_MIN and R_CO_MAX and B_CO_MIN and B_CO_MAX... It's still really blue. Whites & grays come out blue, etc. Any idea what settings I should be playing with?
I am fiddling with those color adjustments right now cause the colors displaying on my screen are just fade. I use my 21" monitor as a secondary one and the contrast with the colors of the other monitor is evident.
Is there a way to make colors more "flashy" ?
Or I will end up like Enverex and buy a new LCD screen !!!
Amazing, who in the heck came up with this resistor fix in the first place! I’m sitting here looking at my fifty dollar Dell P1110 21” monitor with utter amazement. I bought the monitor from a colleague at work sight unseen. Upon firing it up, I instantly noticed the washed-out screen even before Windows started. I was not happy and felt I had been taken. I found this (mega) thread about a resistor mod and felt complied to share the good news. Monitor now works and looks perfect!!!!
I went down to the local electronic store and purchased 5 five resisters (4.7m, 5.6m, 6.2m, 6.8m and 10m) at a cost of 24 cents each. It took me two attempts to get it right (about an hour for the first and half that for the second). In my first attempt, I simply soldered the 10m resistor onto the R459 connection as specified in the article. I left the original 10m resistor on the front side intact which resulted in a 5m resistance because of the parallel connection. I turned on my monitor and saw rich black color! However, it was just a bit too dark. I had to max out the brightness level to 100% and although much much better-- it was not best.
I was going to leave it but I decided to try my luck again. This time I had to unsolder the 10m resistor I just put on and clip one of the ends the original 10m resistor on the bottom side. (Trick: remove the lone screw on the circuit board and you can lift up the end of the card for better access to the original 10m resistor). I then soldered on the 6.2m resistor and now have perfect white and black balance. My brightness is set at 75% and all the color is back with photo true color and clarity. Actually the 6.8m resistor would have probably been the best choice in my case but I didn't want to press my luck with another mod.
Here are some mod tips I noted:
(1) I am by no means an electrician but the mod(s) was easier than expected
(2) Lay a towel down in front of the monitor to minimize scuffing (monitor is heavy)
(3) Lean the monitor face forward onto the towel (careful here, when the monitor goes beyond the stand it slips down pretty hard about an inch – my finger stopped the first time impact-- ouch!)
(4) Rotate the monitor (on its face) 180 degrees around and remove the two screws from the back.
(5) Using a flathead screwdriver, insert it into the provided slots and pry upwards while pulling outwards on each side. The slots are located above the screw holes near the rear/top of case. You will have to apply some force to get the sides free.
(6) To remove the front/top of the case, rotate the monitor back around again and insert the screwdriver into the provided slots on the monitor top near the sides of case. Simply push inwards into the slots to release the catch—case pops right off.
(7) When soldering, be careful not let any of the solder bleed over and touch the R457 connection next to the R459. It sounds like others have had this happen resulting in erroneous brightness level control.
hey guys.... i have a Sony E400 with the classic "too bright" problem. I got myself a cable and configured WINDAS as instructed... yet when i when i run WINDAS the error message "No mdl Files" comes up. Also when clicking "model sel" no screen comes up. any ideas?
hey guys.... i have a Sony E400 with the classic "too bright" problem. I got myself a cable and configured WINDAS as instructed... yet when i when i run WINDAS the error message "No mdl Files" comes up. Also when clicking "model sel" no screen comes up. any ideas?
The no mdl files is normal...I had same prob with the model select not finding anything till I switched to a diff pc, for some reason my main box wouldn't recognize the monitor/com port.
rule out what you can, what ever is left is the prob
My 21" inch trinitron has 2 lines across. This is what makes it a "Trinitron".
whoa....yer right! i never noticed the line up top till now, but i DO have TWO lines!! the one about 1/3rd down is barely noticeable, but the one that is 2/3 down is very noticeable
it's not something i noticed b4 though....wierd....hmmm
I received a Sony G500 today. It has the same ugly bright picture described in this thread. Further, the picture seams to be out of focus towards centre. Whenever I change a window to full screen, the monitor picture resizes itself. It scales up and back to normal size as if it is pulsing.
My question: Is it worth the money and trouble to make DAS working for my monitor? Can I solve all mentioned issues with that tool?
The no mdl files is normal...I had same prob with the model select not finding anything till I switched to a diff pc, for some reason my main box wouldn't recognize the monitor/com port.
rule out what you can, what ever is left is the prob
by "normal" did you mean "common"?? so simply using another computer is the only solution for this "no mdl files" problem??
Comments
After the interface is connected to the monitor and the COM port, start WinDAS, backup the existing DAT file, and then load the corrected DAT file. Once the corrected DAT file is loaded, go to "Adjustments", then click on "Procedure", and then on "Final setting"; and once WinDAS confirms the input signal of 1600x1200, click OK, then as soon as the program ask you "Do you set the final values"?, then click OK, then exit WinDAS.
Without touching none of the OSD buttons, power down the monitor, and turn it off, then disconnet the interface. Wait for 3-5 minutes, then turn the unit back on, and the OSD should be unlocked.
The issue is I was not telling WinDAS to save the final setting values into the DAT file and to the EEPROM BEFORE exiting WinDAS, and that was the reason why the OSD locked up.
Try this trick... After several trials with different tricks, this one did it for me and perhaps it will do it for you, and to others who maybe experiencing the same hurdles.
Sincerely,
Luis A. Grunauer, Jr.
lagrunauer@aol.com
I think you can find the ECS port in the bottom right of the second picture you posted (http://www.short-media.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18844&d=1137397071). Earlier in the thread someone posted a picture of their sony monitor with a similar looking tab on top of the pins. Try and see if you can remove it.
That looks like a capacitor, I don't have the schematics to your monitor, but what you could try, is to trace back from the G2 pin on your CRT, it'll probably branch, but maybe you'll find a resistor somewher along the way.
Actually, after seing what your service port is, you shouldn't do the resistor 'fix', the resistor isn't faulty anyway, and it will throw off color return (it's probably already off, people seem to think color return is the thing that started the whole brightness problem).
What is wrong with the service port you found? That is a type of serial connector, I don't know the name, but my colorimeter uses it. It has an adapter (no circuit, just re wiring) with female end like that and a female DB9.(Incase I mixed it up , I'll add that I consider the DB9 on your computer male.)
Simply look up it's pinout and voila, it's got the same pins as the DB(DE?)9 and DB25 connectors.Actually, it probably has a +5v,grnd pair that I would think serial doesn't. But I don't remember my pinouts.
So once you find the pinout, you can probably follow the instructions un modified, or maybe, your service port puts out the signals at RS-232 levels, hence, you would need no circuit/chip.
Let us know how it goes, hopefully you can confirm whatever the case is for future readers with your type of service port.
Atleast you'll never have to take that cover off again
I should update the howto at http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/ with the information about this alternative service port.
A few months ago I get a Sony CPD E500E 21'' monitor from a friend and it had the over brightness problem. After reading about the DAS solution on this forum I build a TTL <-> RS232 cable and used an old DOS version of DAS. This version of DAS gave some error message each time I tried to save the EPROM into a file (errors in reading the data). The problem is that I still performed the 'white balance procedur' without knowing anything of the values asked to set. So I adjusted the G2 but get a monitor showing incorrect colours and becoming slightly darker when displaying a white screen.
Yesterday I found the howto from P991 DELL SONY (many thanks to him for this great work) and I get to install winDAS and to save my (now bad) EPROM into a file. I tried a second time the white balance with winDAS and the monitor now looks better but still have this problem of becoming darker when showing something white and colours could be better.
I want to use this monitor for graphics and video editing and so I want to adjust the white balance exactly. I can get a colorimeter from a friend but I don’t know how to use it with winDAS and what I should do with all this setting winDAS is asking for during the white balance procedure.
Perhaps someone (P991 DELL SONY, you said you had performed it for your monitor) can explain to me each step of the 'white balance procedure' from winDAS, how I should set the parameters and what I should measure with the colorimeter. That would be a great help for me.
Many many thanks in advance for your help.
Can anybody tell me where I could find a good book on repairing monitors and TV ? (online or paper or PDF)
Thank you again !
Lo
Do you have the service manual for those monitors? That could probably make finding the right things easier.
I doubt the G2 can cause a problem, the more resistance, the brighter your screen gets, so it's actually got less voltage on it when it's brighter. Atleast, for that resistor people keep changing. I haven't actually studied the G2 circuit that much. It does seem to be connected to the FBT somehow, in adition to be connected to an IC which is probably controlled by DAS.
If you find any specific monitor/tv/CRT repair stuff, let us know.
Thanks.
You seem to have gotten yourself into the same mess I did earlier. I changed the whitebalance without using a colorimiter, and I didn't back up my old settings, so I had exactly the same problems you are having.
Basicly, the whitebalance adjusts, depending on your monitors design (Maybe some have a different electron gun, I'm not sure)
The unified G2 voltage shared by all three guns.
Then for each color temp (9300,5000,6500):
Cutoff Max/Mins for all RGB guns (I think this means to controll the individual G1 voltages)
Drives for all RGB guns (not sure what this is exactly)
CNT_MAX_BRT (the brightest a pixel can get, not brightness, but max contrast)
CNT_MIN_BRT (The lower end of the contrast setting)
ABL (Automatic brightness limiter, "Wait for luminance to stabilize" sets both of the values below)
ABL_MAX_CNT(sets the maximum average brightness of the whole screen, explaining why the screen darkens when displaying all white. )
ABL_SHUTDOWN (When average brightness exceeds this amount (because ABL cannot limit it quickly enough) your monitor shuts down to protect itself. This illustrates the importance of properly setting your ABL.)
Windas will tell you to adjust a certain subset of values untill your colorimiter reads a certain reading in CIE xyY units. It will also tell you to display patterns, such as a 30IRE gray and a 255 RGB white, 0 RGB black,etc. It uses the mode 1024x780 for my 19" P991, maybe it will ask another mode for your monitor.
More simply, windas will tell you what the readings should be, and only let you adjust certain values at one time. It explains exactly what to do for each step.
At the end, the color return is calibrated, I'm not sure if it functions properly, it seems a bug in the color return function caused the brightness issue.
Since your ABL setting appears to be ruined, I'd suggest you manually set both ABL settings to the factory default of 255 before you do the white balance procedure again, else, the ABL will kick in when you set your CNT_MAX_BRT. When it says "wait for luminance to stabilize" don't wait very long, I've found it stabilizes very quickly. ABL is important, without it, your screen will change size when the screen is bright, this is hard on the voltage regulation. I'm not sure what type of damage can be caused, but ABL_SHUTDOWN gives a clue that it is serious.
You should use one computer to run Windas and the colorimiter, and another computer to display patterns on the monitor you are calibrating.
I'd make a howto for all of this, but, it doesn't seem like something many people end up doing, or needing a lot of help with. I haven't completely figured out what this stuff physically does yet, so once I do figure it out, I'll make a formal howto.
Good luck resetting your white balance, It's time consuming, but not hard. I got excellent results myself.In all the white tracking is very close. Setting cutoffs is difficult because colorimiters can get inacureate at lower lumininace levels (you'll know because the readings 'stick' despite changing the settings, then jump after you change them a bit more.). Don't ignore your eyes if it doesn't look right at low luminances.
I'll look in that direction. Thank you very much for all your support sir !!!
It has to be around 10MOhm.
It is a aprt of a voltage divider and if you put a too low resistnace in the divider, you will have a higher current in your divider and possibly problems (I don't know about the voltage) but it might produce a power above the 1/4 Watt that the resistor can bear !
Lo
Two questions though... First, I have 2 Sony CPD-E400's.. one was washed out, the other wasn't. Ideally, the color would match on the two... It's not as easy as loading the data file from the good one onto the bad one by any chance, is it?
Also, I'm still having some color issues that I'm trying to work out. The color is excessively blue, not red enough. The Sony Color Test app shows red as having a purplish tone to it. I lowered B_DRV, raised R_DRV... same with the R_CO_MIN and R_CO_MAX and B_CO_MIN and B_CO_MAX... It's still really blue. Whites & grays come out blue, etc. Any idea what settings I should be playing with?
Thanks,
Scott
Changing the color is tricky, There are three sets of color settings, one for each color temp. Then there seems to be a 'currently selected' group of color settings.
You may have to use the OSD to re-select the color temp you are adjusting so the changes you made take efect.
So check under the = COLOR section of the .dat file. Seeing the settings for 9300 6500 5000 should give you an idea of what to do.
Good luck
I am fiddling with those color adjustments right now cause the colors displaying on my screen are just fade. I use my 21" monitor as a secondary one and the contrast with the colors of the other monitor is evident.
Is there a way to make colors more "flashy" ?
Or I will end up like Enverex and buy a new LCD screen !!!
Having a prob getting any response from my dell trin 1130 in Windas. Am I correct thinking that pin 1 is the top pin on the rear port?
I went down to the local electronic store and purchased 5 five resisters (4.7m, 5.6m, 6.2m, 6.8m and 10m) at a cost of 24 cents each. It took me two attempts to get it right (about an hour for the first and half that for the second). In my first attempt, I simply soldered the 10m resistor onto the R459 connection as specified in the article. I left the original 10m resistor on the front side intact which resulted in a 5m resistance because of the parallel connection. I turned on my monitor and saw rich black color! However, it was just a bit too dark. I had to max out the brightness level to 100% and although much much better-- it was not best.
I was going to leave it but I decided to try my luck again. This time I had to unsolder the 10m resistor I just put on and clip one of the ends the original 10m resistor on the bottom side. (Trick: remove the lone screw on the circuit board and you can lift up the end of the card for better access to the original 10m resistor). I then soldered on the 6.2m resistor and now have perfect white and black balance. My brightness is set at 75% and all the color is back with photo true color and clarity. Actually the 6.8m resistor would have probably been the best choice in my case but I didn't want to press my luck with another mod.
Here are some mod tips I noted:
(1) I am by no means an electrician but the mod(s) was easier than expected
(2) Lay a towel down in front of the monitor to minimize scuffing (monitor is heavy)
(3) Lean the monitor face forward onto the towel (careful here, when the monitor goes beyond the stand it slips down pretty hard about an inch – my finger stopped the first time impact-- ouch!)
(4) Rotate the monitor (on its face) 180 degrees around and remove the two screws from the back.
(5) Using a flathead screwdriver, insert it into the provided slots and pry upwards while pulling outwards on each side. The slots are located above the screw holes near the rear/top of case. You will have to apply some force to get the sides free.
(6) To remove the front/top of the case, rotate the monitor back around again and insert the screwdriver into the provided slots on the monitor top near the sides of case. Simply push inwards into the slots to release the catch—case pops right off.
(7) When soldering, be careful not let any of the solder bleed over and touch the R457 connection next to the R459. It sounds like others have had this happen resulting in erroneous brightness level control.
A many thanks to Slipkid, http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/,
and others who have contributed towards providing this solution.
The no mdl files is normal...I had same prob with the model select not finding anything till I switched to a diff pc, for some reason my main box wouldn't recognize the monitor/com port.
rule out what you can, what ever is left is the prob
i noticed something recently on my modified monitor that i've been meaning to ask about...
the monitor has a horizontal faint grey line about 1/2 way down the screen, stretching all the way across
it's not that bad but is slightly annoying - any ideas what could be causing this?
danke
whoa....yer right! i never noticed the line up top till now, but i DO have TWO lines!! the one about 1/3rd down is barely noticeable, but the one that is 2/3 down is very noticeable
it's not something i noticed b4 though....wierd....hmmm
I received a Sony G500 today. It has the same ugly bright picture described in this thread. Further, the picture seams to be out of focus towards centre. Whenever I change a window to full screen, the monitor picture resizes itself. It scales up and back to normal size as if it is pulsing.
My question: Is it worth the money and trouble to make DAS working for my monitor? Can I solve all mentioned issues with that tool?
Thanks
by "normal" did you mean "common"?? so simply using another computer is the only solution for this "no mdl files" problem??
everytime I start windas I see the "no mdl" files.....the program works
oooohhh... ok. so next question... pressing F2 does nothing on my machine. so i guess i should try another computer?