Modiying a Barton 2500+ For Dualie Operation ( & FSB266 )

Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
edited September 2003 in Hardware
Modiying a Barton 2500+ For Dualie Operation (For Swordsman)

Using some info from Muddocktor I made something like this. Of course Mine was a lot cruder. :)

I used a 250watt PSU and the needles were connected to the 5v & ground wires of an molex extension cable.

Now I needed reading glasses and a hands free magnifiyer (From Radio Shack) to properly see the L5 & L12 bridges on the Barton 2500+ CPU. But all you have to do is first touch on side of the bridge with the Neutral Needle, and then touch the other Dot with the 5v needle. You'll hear a pop and see a little flash (It startled me!). But that's it.

Blow the 4th and 5th L3 Bridge (for 15x multiplier), and the 3rd L12 bridge (for FSB266 instead of FSB333). and your set.

Closed > |
Open > :

| | | | | L3 (11x)

| | | : : L3 (15x)

: | | | L12 (FSB333)

: | : | L12 (FSB266)

This site will help with the Multiplier bridges...OCInside: Tbred/Barton Painting guide and go to here for the FSB select info John Candjac: FSB Sense page

Bridge Blower
attachment.php?s=&postid=2612


For Dualie Operation: Simply connect the last L5 Bridge Dots, Pit and all. Modding the Athlon XP into an MP


. | : : : L5(Single)

. | : : | L5(Dual CPU)

New Info added:
Unlocking the new Athlon XPs for Dual Processing

This pic here shows all of the Bridges (L3, L5, and L12) together
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Comments

  • QCHQCH Ancient Guru Chicago Area - USA Icrontian
    edited August 2003
    sweet... Nice post. Nice to hear that some mods entail distuction.... Cool. I will wait try one myself though.
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited August 2003
    One Caveat.

    Current Bartons have a slight coating over the bridges. I used a plastic kithcen scrubber, and rubbed the surface (lightly) over the bridges to remove it
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited August 2003
    ...or you could just use the wire trick and mod the multi that way, without as much risk of farking one (or both CPUs)...
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited August 2003
    It's ridiculously easy!

    I modified 4 Barton 2500+. Did Three at once and the 4th the next day with no problems. Just go slow and steady.
  • NoFutureNoFuture In a 3D world...
    edited August 2003
    That is nice to ear!!!

    I'm considering getting a dual system for folding purposes...
  • TheSmJTheSmJ
    edited August 2003
    Why mod the CPU to 266? Can you not run two 333FSB procs in a dualie?
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited August 2003
    Nope.
  • a2jfreaka2jfreak Houston, TX Member
    edited August 2003
    Is there a dual board that will support a high clocked Athlon? like 133*16.5 or 133*17? (Without any mods to the motherboard)?
  • TheSmJTheSmJ
    edited August 2003
    Thrax said
    Nope.

    Odd, there any reason for this, or is it just that no-one has come out with such a beast?
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited August 2003
    TheSmJ; the answer is actually quite simple:

    The only dual athlon chipset can't support 333MHz/166MHz bus CPUs. The 760MP/MPX is the SMP version of AMD's 761 chipset, which while a very good chipset, cannot do 166MHz FSBs. It has no PCI/AGP lock, and so most boards tend to max. out at around 150, and since most workstation/server boards aren't designed with overclocking high on the priority list, most don't overclock well. The best you can do is MSI's K7D Master/Master-L boards, which, depending on the rest of the system, are generally good for at least 140, sometimes 150MHz bus speeds.

    Omega; I'm talented. I'll use either those upgradeware adapters or the wire because I guarantee that if it's possible to fark the CPU while blowing bridges, I'll be the one to do it. :rolleyes:
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited August 2003
    Send them to me I'll do it for you. Just shoot me a PM.

    Just make sure you have one of the older Bartons, without the coating over the bridges....see here
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited August 2003
    Hrm. I may do that. Thanks for the offer. First though I have to excavate my desk (see that "post your desk" thread...)

    When did they change the die/pcb/whateveryouwanttocallit? I noticed that JIUHB DLT3C 1800 I picked up from Fry's a few weeks back had a new die, exactly like the one in the pic in that thread, but both of my Bartons are the older brown die cpus... I didn't know they changed it on the Bartons as well...
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited August 2003
    Geeky1,

    Do those upgradeware adapters force you to use their heatsinks as they raise the cpu off the socket so that a standard heatsink, like my SK-7's won't fit anymore? I haven't seen the actual unit, but from what I understand, they fit under the processor between it and the socket, and therefore make the whole package "thicker". Is this true or false?

    Thanks,
    Flint
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited August 2003
    I know they raise the CPU; whether it's enough to not be able to use a normal heatsink or not though, I don't know.
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    OK, let's see if I've got this straight, before I put the h/s & fans back on!!

    I've done the wire mods on 2 Green Bartons and scraped the coating off the L5's and put on paint to make them MP's. NOW. Do I need to cut any bridges on top of the chip since I've done all the wire mods on the bottom (actually in the sockets)? I've hardwired the multi to 15 and the voltage to 1.75. If I don't have to cut anything on top, I ready to rock & roll!! And I can hardly wait!!!

    If you know the answer, please let me know it. I'm dieing to put this thing back together.

    Thanks,
    Flint:respect:
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited September 2003
    You do have to set the BIOS to auto-detect voltage & multipliers. Why hardwire the voltage though? Most motherboards support voltage adjustment...
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    I don't know, I thought I had to as I'd never looked at the voltage options for the K7D. Well, since I'm too impatient to wait, I put it in the box and it won't post. D-LED's code for a processor problem, so I'll pull it out and pull the hs/fan's and start over. That'll be tomorrow, though, as having to work for a living cuts into my fun with computers big time!! Glad I have everything backed up twice across the network so I don't need this machine specifically. But going from a dual w/U160 scsi raid to a single processor w/ 1 ide hdd is a culture shock!!

    Please let me know about the bridges vs the wire mod. I'd like to get this thing back up and running tomorrow.

    Thanks peeps!

    Flint:cool2:
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited September 2003
    Do One CPU at a time to see if it will post.

    Also check to see if the wire mod has been done correctly
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited September 2003
    The K7D has voltage and multiplier adjustments in the BIOS. Clear the CMOS, which will reset the voltage/multi to autodetect, undo the mod, boot with 1 cpu, change voltage to 1.7 or whatever you want, and then re-do the mod, try it with 1 cpu @ a time. Leave multiplier selection @ auto detect
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    OK, Here goes. I finally have time to try and get this thing to work and this is what I've got so far. All of the below is on a K7D Master-L:

    I removed any processor mods or wires and went with bone stock stuff.

    I got 1 processor to post but it detects as an unknown 2400Mhz processor with the FSB jumper @ 100Mhz which is (100x2)x12, right? All settings on auto in the bios.

    When I move the jumper to 133, clear the cmos, and let it redetect, I expect it to come up with something comparable, but it won't even post! and the D-leds indicate the hang at "Processor Initialization". Do you guys think this is because of a bios problem where the board has absolutely no idea what a Barton is?

    It's running bios 1.6, I think.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Flint :scratch:
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    looks like your multi is at 24x

    24 x 133 = 3192. Your barton will not be able to do that. You need to lower the multi.
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    If by 2400MHz, you meant 2400+, it might be right:

    133.33 x 15 = 1999.95, or an Athlon XP 2400.
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    The post screen shows : Unknown CPU Type 2400MHz

    When I had a couple of T-breds in it, it showed them as MP 1800+ processors. So, I'm thinking that it thinks that this processor is running at 2400MHz, not a processor running @1999 which = a 2400+!

    Especially since 15 is not a possible multiplier in the bios. It stops at 12.5 on this board and it has a jumper for the FSB which it calls default in the bios that is at 100 MHz. So, I am at a loss. When the jumper is set to 100, you can't access any FSB speeds over 117! Now what. Like I said before, is it a bios issue for the Barton core. The bios date is 12/13/02, if I read it right.

    Flint
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Barton core is supported.

    They just released Barton MPs.
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    I appreciate the response, but for this:

    http://www.msi.com.tw/program/suppo...ail.php?UID=344

    It makes no reference to a fsb of 166. BUT, if it does in fact support it, do I need to be on a different bios version for ti to work? Have you or anyone else had any experience with this?

    Thanks,
    Flint
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    If you hard code the multi to something (via a mod on top of the cpu or wire mod), the multi can be higher than 12.5 if you tell the bios to use the default multi.
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    I know that, that's where this whole thing started. What I'm trying to do, is start from scratch. I tried the wire mod already and couldn't get it to boot. So I removed the mod and am trying to get it to recognise the chip as anything, at defaults, at 133 fsb. It won't. It will only recognise the chip and boot, at defaults, at fsb 100.

    Thanks,
    Flint
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Have you considered that you did the mod wrong? :(

    BTW, barton MPs are FSB133.
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    It's actually the first thing I considered!!


    That's the problem...I undid all the mods! Now I have no where to turn except you guys!!:confused2
  • FlintstoneFlintstone SE Florida
    edited September 2003
    Other non-essential info:

    The temps seem a little high for a cpu sitting in the bios with an SK-7, AS-3, 80mm Sunon, room temp of approx 75 Deg F., and the whole shootin' match sittin' on a table-not in a case. It's at 51 Deg C. That leads me to believe the damn chip is running at 2400 MHz, not 2400+. What do you think? By the way, the previous T-bred chips ran at 42 Deg C.
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