Is my Psu about to go bye-bye?
I noticed yesterday when I came home, there was a smell of burnt something in the air of my room. I keep my door closed because of my little nephew pulling on the wires from my surround sound, and computers, so all the hot air from all my electronics are kept in my room, but this time it was a burning smell.
I automatically thought it was my main rig's power supply. It has a lot of hot, burning smelling air blowing out the back, and when I removed the case, the actual psu was extremely hot to the touch, like it would almost burn you. I didn't have time to mess with it so I shut down, my computer and head off to work, come home and power back up, and it isn't hot anymore, and no burning smell as of yet.
It is just a generic :banghead: psu that my friend gave me because I didn't have one when I put together my computer.
I automatically thought it was my main rig's power supply. It has a lot of hot, burning smelling air blowing out the back, and when I removed the case, the actual psu was extremely hot to the touch, like it would almost burn you. I didn't have time to mess with it so I shut down, my computer and head off to work, come home and power back up, and it isn't hot anymore, and no burning smell as of yet.
It is just a generic :banghead: psu that my friend gave me because I didn't have one when I put together my computer.
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Eithr way, burning smell with no smoke is probably slowly melting wire insulation. Unless fuse was bypassed, a large overload would cause fuse to blow, so this is something progressive.
COULD be with any extra fans being turned on, that is giving you the overload, OR, could be one of the pins on a power harness connection has come partly loose and the result is a no-good circuit in power harness casuing feedback into PSU. That would be consonant with what you are talking about.
Probably, to answer your question, YES, but slowly right now rather than catastrophicly. Time, well, have seen them last up to a month that way, but I would replace when can afford if the hot air was not coming from another fan outlet in back. Add 50 watts or get lower power draw fans like Panaflos (from Panasonic), for now, and watch it when you get home and just after it has been on all night.
I've used generic PSU's which have displayed these systems. They may do this for a little whilke, then suddenly blow out and take components with it (for some reason, it's always the hard drive).
To some that might sound hasty, but PSU's can cause massive damage to a PC and some can quite easily set your house on fire.
I never take risks with the PSU, at the first sign of trouble, it's gone.
Goodness, don't do that! I keep a derelict but functioning PSU in my garage for fan testing, and for emergency motherboard diagnostics. I've shorted one of the power leads for 7 volts, and configured another for three-pin connectors. It's very handy for testing fans - I'm always scheming on ways to improve airflow and reduce noise. (I've also got a modding ailment known as 'fan fetish'! )
Also, if you ever need to troubleshoot a system with a suspect power supply - say if a system won't post and you need to rule out the system's PSU as the problem, you can use your spare PSU for testing. (Of course, you would not want to install it and leave it unattended. )
i went to class, and when i got back i saw a few guys standing at my door knocking...i asked them what the problem was and they informed me that something was burning and the smell was coming from my room ... opened the door and there it was...the PSU was pretty much on fire.
good thing the fire alarm didn't go off yet. i shut the machine down and ordered an Antec 430 watt psu... no problems since
For a fan test, which is a good idea, you are typically using the 12 volt line mostly as far as amps go, so if you have a PSU that will boot mobo but will not power a HD it might not be able to reliably test a fan. If opposite, 5 volt circuit might well be damaged and the 12 volt might be fine, so if you short 12 to 5 to get 7 volts (not really a good long term use idea, though possible) the fan might not work or might get damaged. I would instead get a rheostatic voltage adjuster and a voltmeter and put both inline in PSU->rheostat->VOM->fan order on fan input (hot) leg and measure and test off 12 volt lead itself, as the rheostat and VOM can yield more accurate voltage control than a PSU with one bad leg.
John.