A question about how to apply thermal paste.
I've always heard and read that a paper thin layer is best but since the paste is really only there to fill microscopic pits and imperfections, wouldn't merely smearing a tiny bit on with a platic bag around your finger be even better? Paper thin almost seems too thick.
edit: Also, are antec silver and arctic silver basically the same or is arctic better? I had some of both from my last upgrade a few years ago but i was only able to find the antec.
edit: Also, are antec silver and arctic silver basically the same or is arctic better? I had some of both from my last upgrade a few years ago but i was only able to find the antec.
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then attaching the hsf seems to be fine for paste type compounds like arctic
silver (which i would prefer over the antec). i am using this with great sucess:
http://www.frozencpu.com/thr-26.html
(i have been ordering it from germany, nice to finaly see it stateside)
The thickness of the paste depends upon the flatness of the heatsink and CPU core or heatspreader, thinner is OK if you've got lapped or very high quality surfaces, but the general rule of thumb of "paper thin" usually does the trick best overall.
Good luck with that crap, m.oreilly. I wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot pole. It is devestating to aluminum, even if some just accidently contacts aluminum. Plus it is toxic to boot and I've also read that is dries out over time, losing some of it's effectiveness.
I wouldn't suggest using that stuff in your $300 Lian Li V2000 or any other case made from Al. Just one drop and you've got a new ever expanding vent hole
BTW, if you go to google videos and put in Thermal Pste, you'll find a few tutorial clips, not to mention a perfect guide on AS's website.
I'm not totaly sure about how it exactly works, but last year in chem, we put a drop of mercury on some aluminum, and it oxidized it in about 1minute. The way I understand it, aluminum only oxidizes a very thin layer on top and thats it, but I suppose that the aluminum keeps eating through the first layer and letting it oxidize again and again.
I use a razor blade, but it's the same idea. It's always worked for me and seems to make the job a lot easier.
Books? lawl.
Here is a thread at the overclockers.com forums on this stuff and the guy that started the thread did an experiment on an old aluminum heatsink. He has links in that thread to the pics he took, but I'm going to see if I can link to them in this post.
Sorry for the large size of them, but I didn't want to shrink them so it is easier to see what happened. Also, here is another link on damage at frostytech on a Zalman heatsink.
If you want to mess with this stuff then have at it. Even if it works marginally better than AS5, it's not worth messing with to me. Anything that corrosive has got to be able to be absorbed through your skin too and I don't want to take the chance, personally.
the person or persons using it on aluminum either have not read them, or have another agenda altogether. it is a superior product, with clear instructions and the appropriate warnings provided. you might also show how dangerous it is to suit up for some snorkeling, and jump out of an airplane (with or without the mercury damage ) for similar carnage...
And do you have stock in that company or are you a payed shill for them?
If you bothered reading the linked thread, you would see that the guy did it as an experiment to see what happens when this stuff comes in contact with aluminum.
You have made your point (whatever it is?) that you like this crap. I am showing reasons why I don't think it's worth messing with.
BTW, do you have an MSDS sheet for this stuff by any chance? I just looked at what SVC has posted on their website and this stuff has Gallium, Indium, Rhodium and Stannous (Tin).
Just looking at these elements that are used in this product makes me want to stay away from it, besides the fact that this stuff is corrosive as hell with certain metals. I work with hazardous substances at my job and I've made it my business to know what kind of product I'm handling by reading the MSDS sheets and look for substances that can cause harm.
If you want to use this stuff then go ahead, but I suggest that you at least wear rubber (preferably neoprene) gloves while handling it to minimise your chance of skin contact. As for me, I'll stick with AS5 for now as it's most dangerous substance is silver.
Here's a link to that liquid metal tim's MSDS sheet, for anyone who want to read it for themselves.
Yes. I have read the directions.
Yes. I am aware of the product's requirements.
Yes. I know what to, and what not to put it on.
I would not get that **** close to my PC.
No, I wouldn't use that stuff in my computer either. I am sure it could be applied safely, but I'm not interested. m.oreilly, don't take it personally that some of us aren't interested in your thermal paste of choice. If you like it and get good results with it, all the power to you!
Quick summary:
small chips - spread it out with razor blade or platstic bag over the fingers
large chips (a la CPU's with heatspreaders) - dot in the center
rough/uneven surfaces - require more paste
polished surfaces that mate completely flat - minimal paste
Concerning CPUs with heatspreaders: I've tried the 'dot' method as well very careful application using a razor blade. Both worked equally well. The reason Arctic Silver recommends using a small dot of paste, letting the heatsink distribute it, is to avoid micro-air pockets in the paste, which reduces thermal conductivity.