Best video card cooler?
Ok, so I few days ago I was tinkering around with my video card, seeing how high of an overclock I could get, ect. It's currently a silky smooth 12 degrees in my room and my video card is overclocked to the max. But alas, the heating bill has gone up and the parents aren't to happy. So I need a new alternative to cooling this sucker down. So, what's the best grx card cooler? I'm looking at a 60 dollar price range. I am currently useing a Gainward Geforce 4 Ti4200 8X card and am planning on upgrading to a Radeon 9800 sometime after X-mas.
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newegg has them for $29.99 and $34.99 shipped. scroll until you see it.
don't expect a whole lot more from it than what you can achieve from simply adding some AS5 to your stock hsf IMHO
$18.00 USD @ http://www.1coolpc.com/jag.htm
You'll need a couple minutes, some rubber washers, throughbolts, a dremel tool, nuts, a drill, a drillbit to match the diameter of the throughbolts and some AS3/5.
http://mikhailtech.com/articles/mods/mx440mod/
Mikhailtech did this modification to a GeForce 4 MX 440, but it can be done with any video card as long as there is sufficient clearence around the GPU.
Here's a 9800 Pro with the CoolJag JAC313C 1U Copper server cooler installed
How many does the AMD retail cooler take up? 2? 3?
The CoolJag puts out 24 CFM in a 63x63x26mm package @ 5200 RPM (+/-10%).
Considering most VGA coolers put out what.... 10-14 CFM, it's a noticable improvement. Either way, overclocking is still limited by what the GPU can achieve.
No offense taken. My mod is a mess, primarily because I was more interested in getting it working than I was in how it looked.
Regardless, the AMD retail HSF takes up the first PCI slot on the NF7-S, so on a normal board, it would take up the first two slots.
EDIT: blah, i'm stuck between getting the Zalman or the cooljag...
Mod a 70mm or even a 80mm fan on that and you have some extra air on the memory on that card. If you don't have anything in the first pci, then try using a funnel which will increase the cooling a lot. NICE mod!
If you have a case with front and back fans, the easiest way not to disturb the overall airflow with a column (3D ROW for anyone who wants to get technical a horizontally rotated column, it is a round airflow unless broken up) and net result if it is that the column gets broken up by the airflow up and back through case or the side fan sucks stuff out too well and casues the main airflow to be turbulent instead of airflow going out the side is to duct the AGP card HS out a slot, which means if you want the best results you put a pulling fan on the outside of your slot or use a fanned duct. That is why fanned slot ducts can be very handy, though WITH decent fans on the AGP HS as well as a fanned duct and not either\or.
This is also why I use side holes only to suck air into ATX cases, or with light volume fans blowing IN. On a good ATX case, it might be a LOT better for airflow and cooling if the GPU was on the BACK of the card, fanned so venting would be toward the back fans. Most side blowholes with sucking fans are too close to FRONT of case.
John.
Maybe BTX layouts and cases designed to cool them will help with this conflict some IF they can have rear vent fan on back where CPU etc is supposed to go.
It is a hassle to assemble the Zalman.
But the provided manual is great.
I have rarely seen documentation that good.
Remember the Optional fan ZM-OP1 if your case lacks airflow.
The 80A can not be equipped with a fan, therefore it is only a passive cooler.
The 80C can be equipped with a fan, that would lower the temp significantly.
I would call it a tie between the Arctic cooler and the ZM80C-HP + optional fan.
The Zalman mentioned in this thread is the 80C not the 80A.
Here you can see the ZM80C-HP
http://www.zalman.co.kr/english/product/ZM80C-HP.htm
By the way, the 80A is better than the 80C; the C has less surface area than the A does, and uses a smaller fan (80mm vs. any size you want, 92mm stock) so...
Like FlowFX for Radeon 9500+, minus the noise of course.
It's an impressive cooler, and cools slightly better than the Zalman. Slightly being 2-4*C.
Enjoy
It is called ZM-OP1.
The SilentPC review isn't equal.
It is a passive heatsink versus a active heatsink and fan.
It is no big surprise that the active solution is the best according to the review.
BTW: I didn't know that a fan was available for the ZM80A?
I have never seen it with a fan.
Apart from a ghetto soulution with a 80mm fan attached with rubber bands.
I'm going to be removing my shim to get better contact this week sometime ...I'd do it today but my exacto is at work.
http://www.zalman.co.kr/english/product/fb123.htm
First Link is the 9600xt with the Crystal Orb
http://www.tehgnome.com/9600%20Xt/
Second is the 9700 Pro with the Zalman Heatpipe with Fan
http://www.tehgnome.com/Card/
I have only seen the 80A tested as a passive heatsink.
I have seen a fan being recommended anywhere, and I have read some reviews of the 80A.
BTW: Zalman states that you only need active cooling on the 80C when using R9700Pro and above.
http://www.short-media.com/forum/sh...=&threadid=5211
That's anywhere between 1 and 5hrs work, depending on the heatsink you get and how much effort you want to go to.
Hell, you could even just glue the heatsink on with Arctic Alumina Epoxy and be done with it in 5 minutes + drying time.
Okay, to get back on topic here.
Dodger: The Arctic Cooler won't fit the Ti4200, so it rules that out. Honestly, get the Zalman and slap a 92mm Fan on it for active cooling. I wouldn't trust my video card to a passive cooler, especially with $400 riding on that decision to be quiet.
For the 9800 Pro, Zalman recommends that you USE the fan for active cooling. In a flip between the Arctic Cooler and the Zalman with fan for the 9800 Pro, I'd go with whatever is cheaper. Both cool in the same range, and 1-3*C isn't going to make a whole lot of difference, unless you are planning on overclocking the video card out the wazoo.
Here's what I'm thinking now:
1) Cut off a small square of copper from a 1/16" thick plate I have.
2) Lap it on both sides as well as the stock sink.
3) Polish both sides of the copper plate and the stock sink with the Dremel polishing drum dipped in AS5.
4) Carefully place copper plate centered on R300 core.
5) Center, place, and affix stock sink to card, sandwiching copper plate between core and stock sink.
Opinions?
-drasnor