dtek-120 vs bi xtreme 120
Ok here goes ...
If I get approval from the boss (hehe) I'll be placing an order for the following:
1/2" System Setup
WhiteWater w/ USMA Adapter
Hi Flow PRO-120 Radiator and shroud
CSP 750 Mark II 12v Pump
Bay-Rez
120mm aluminum Fan
7ft high grade tubing
10 quick latch hose clamps
SuperCool Coolant
$200.54 shipped
If I get approval from the boss (hehe) I'll be placing an order for the following:
1/2" System Setup
WhiteWater w/ USMA Adapter
Hi Flow PRO-120 Radiator and shroud
CSP 750 Mark II 12v Pump
Bay-Rez
120mm aluminum Fan
7ft high grade tubing
10 quick latch hose clamps
SuperCool Coolant
$200.54 shipped
0
Comments
dtek of course!
I'm just planning on cooling the cpu for now. I have passive nb and arctic cooler 3 on video so I should be ok. I mostly want to get the noise level way down and keep my 2.4g oc or maybe try 2.5-2.6. Just depends on how cool I can keep the system without running the tt sf2's at 3/4 throttle like I do now. I'll be removing 2 so that'll leave me with 3 on low speed + the psu fans on the antec 480 trueblue.
That is the same rad and shroud I just sold! I still have the same fan in my case if you got the 85 CFM version. While the rad worked great I was totally unimpressed with the shroud they sell. It is kinda flimsy and is only 1/2" deep so there isn't very much equalization of air-flow. That is one of the reasons I built my own out of plexi. I recomend at least 1" deep with 1 1/2" being better yet.
How much noise is increased ... is it double?
I had given it some thought but I wasn't sure about the noise thing since that's my whole issue at the moment. You know what 5 tt sf2's sound like at full volume right? Not to mention the psu and gpu fans.
Anyway goat that's something I'll be thinking about here. I guess I won't know what version I have til it gets here. It shipped today!
Now get your minds out of the gutter as I was talking about a cupcake.
NM
It's late and it's Friday.
In regards to the push/pull config, yes, it is louder. Is the cooling efficiency increased? Good question. I haven't tried a single fan setup so I can't say if there is any huge benefit from push/pull but I would suspect that the additional fan counters the restrictiveness of the fins in terms of air flow through the rad as a whole. I also have the fans on a controller so I can mute them when I'm idling and not pushing the proc. Mind you, with the fans at their lowest setting (whisper quiet) my XP-M @ 2.4 1.9v idles at 39c so Im assuming ts doing a good job.
Description: allow nForce2 chipset based motherboards with AMD cpus
to use C2/C1 idle state (S2K bus disconnection without HALT detection)
reduce idle/load temperatures by 1-10c degrees!
Changes:
added USB device wakeup S3 powerstate
Note:
Use it only if your motherboard support S3 wakeup by USB device!
Author is not responsible for any damage
So what do you think?
I'm not sure which model pump I have though cause it's not labeled. So I'm assuming the same specs as the csp-750m2 for now. There's a new csp-mag now which is just the newer version but not sure how/if the specs differ.
I mean I don't have any handy but if it's necessary I will definitely stop and get some. I just find it hard to imagine not using it at the radiator barbs since it's metal to metal. Any advice on this?
You should use the pip[e tape on anything you assemble that uses threads for coupling and just use clamps or pressure fittings for the rest.
Thanks for your response larry.
Once I removed the barbs from the tank I noticed a layer of silicone on the threads so I cleaned them realy well and reapplied my own stuff. I'll have to show you what it it. It's a (water based) "lube" of some sort. It works wet and dry areas and is a silicone type of sealer. It promotes twice the protection of teflon tape according to the label and I use it on my pool pump apparatus when I need to. I'll check it today to make sure that it made a seal and if not I'll clean it off and I'm sure I have tape or silicone somewhere outside.
So ...how do you prefer your equipment flow?
I' thinking pump>rad>block>res>pump ...what do you think?
Here's a pic of my previous system with some explanations and flow arrows.
I like the idea that the res is the highest point in the loop. I never thought of putting a "t" between the rad and pump. So that worked ok goat?
What's next since you got rid of that wc?
As for what's next......Look here and also take a peek at my revised sig below.
I'll probably have to come up with better air intake but this should do for now. I was thinking that most of the air would be drawn from the blowhole which I need to open up once I get everything apart. I've always wanted to do that anyway because of the restriction and if I ever sell the case I'll just get a black finger guard.
I keep wondering about the bay-res though. It will be significantly lower than the radiator so I'm sure I'll have to tilt the case and have enough slack to pull it out of the front and fill with a funnel. That will be a challenge.
I suppose there's no way to start the pump without starting the computer or buying a relay switch is there?
Could you make your box 2" taller, or is it too late for that? That way you could put the res in the box at the top.
Too late for the box I'm not cutting any more wood. I ended up with a sliver in my eye that day. Tracie flushed my eye twice and well the emergency room persone did it twice again. They both looked everywhere and couldn't find it. They also checked for an abrassion.
Next morning it rubbed right out but I'm leaving the saw alone this week! LOL
Instead I used the chainsaw all weekend!