dtek-120 vs bi xtreme 120

csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
edited May 2005 in Hardware
Ok here goes ...
If I get approval from the boss (hehe) I'll be placing an order for the following:

1/2" System Setup
WhiteWater w/ USMA Adapter
Hi Flow PRO-120 Radiator and shroud
CSP 750 Mark II 12v Pump
Bay-Rez
120mm aluminum Fan
7ft high grade tubing
10 quick latch hose clamps
SuperCool Coolant

$200.54 shipped
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Comments

  • GargGarg Purveyor of Lincoln Nightmares Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    Best of luck with the approval :thumbsup:. Where do you order from?
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    Gargoyle wrote:
    Best of luck with the approval :thumbsup:. Where do you order from?
    omg I got approval!!!!!!!!
    dtek of course! :thumbsup:
  • lemonlimelemonlime Canada Member
    edited February 2005
    Awesome stuff! good choice on the components.. Those WhiteWater blocks are nice.. very restrictive, I'd like to see how the Csystems pump does. I believe it is fairly high pressure for its size, plus you can run two in series or parallel as a future upgrade which is nice. Pics! :)
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    lemonlime wrote:
    Awesome stuff! good choice on the components.. Those WhiteWater blocks are nice.. very restrictive, I'd like to see how the Csystems pump does. I believe it is fairly high pressure for its size, plus you can run two in series or parallel as a future upgrade which is nice. Pics! :)
    thanks I just ordered it.
    I'm just planning on cooling the cpu for now. I have passive nb and arctic cooler 3 on video so I should be ok. I mostly want to get the noise level way down and keep my 2.4g oc or maybe try 2.5-2.6. Just depends on how cool I can keep the system without running the tt sf2's at 3/4 throttle like I do now. I'll be removing 2 so that'll leave me with 3 on low speed + the psu fans on the antec 480 trueblue.
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    Awesome! Post pics as you go so we can see too. ;)
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    how did you like that dtek radiator/shroud and chrome fan setup mtgoat?
  • paroxymparoxym Toronto, Canada
    edited February 2005
    I'm currently rocking the D-tek radiator with alum. fans in a push-pull config. Cant say I have any complaints at all. I managed to squeeze the rad into the front of my Cheming case and can run the fans on low while still keeping my XP-M cool at 2.4ghz. It's a great rad, you won't be dissapointed.
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    csimon wrote:
    how did you like that dtek radiator/shroud and chrome fan setup mtgoat?
    Chris

    That is the same rad and shroud I just sold! I still have the same fan in my case if you got the 85 CFM version. While the rad worked great I was totally unimpressed with the shroud they sell. It is kinda flimsy and is only 1/2" deep so there isn't very much equalization of air-flow. That is one of the reasons I built my own out of plexi. I recomend at least 1" deep with 1 1/2" being better yet.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    paroxym wrote:
    I'm currently rocking the D-tek radiator with alum. fans in a push-pull config. Cant say I have any complaints at all. I managed to squeeze the rad into the front of my Cheming case and can run the fans on low while still keeping my XP-M cool at 2.4ghz. It's a great rad, you won't be dissapointed.
    How do you like the push pull config?
    How much noise is increased ... is it double?
    I had given it some thought but I wasn't sure about the noise thing since that's my whole issue at the moment. You know what 5 tt sf2's sound like at full volume right? Not to mention the psu and gpu fans.

    Anyway goat that's something I'll be thinking about here. I guess I won't know what version I have til it gets here. It shipped today! :thumbsup:
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    It looks like the set up paroxym is using is the no longer made Pro series that is a bit bigger than the Pro 120 series as that looks like the Coolingworks Coolshroud. And they are only made for the larger heater core rads.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    yeah I saw that chevette rad ...I have an old corvette rad but it didn't do much for the vette at the angle it was mounted. ;D
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    csimon wrote:
    yeah I saw that chevette rad ...I have an old corvette rad but it didn't do much for the vette at the angle it was mounted. ;D
    And I saw a hostess that didn't do much from the angle it was mounted. :eek:


    Now get your minds out of the gutter as I was talking about a cupcake. ;D


    NM
    It's late and it's Friday. :wtf:
  • paroxymparoxym Toronto, Canada
    edited February 2005
    Eek, my mistake. It is the older series rad.
    In regards to the push/pull config, yes, it is louder. Is the cooling efficiency increased? Good question. I haven't tried a single fan setup so I can't say if there is any huge benefit from push/pull but I would suspect that the additional fan counters the restrictiveness of the fins in terms of air flow through the rad as a whole. I also have the fans on a controller so I can mute them when I'm idling and not pushing the proc. Mind you, with the fans at their lowest setting (whisper quiet) my XP-M @ 2.4 1.9v idles at 39c so Im assuming ts doing a good job. :thumbsup:
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    paroxym wrote:
    Mind you, with the fans at their lowest setting (whisper quiet) my XP-M @ 2.4 1.9v idles at 39c so Im assuming ts doing a good job. :thumbsup:
    Is that an Nforce2 mb? If so are you using the C2 cooling patch? v2.1 came out today that's why I ask. Let me know if you want it. My idle temp is about 10c less than my load temp.
  • paroxymparoxym Toronto, Canada
    edited February 2005
    NF2 indeed... NF7-s to be exact. Whereabouts can I grab the latest version of the C2 Cooling patch? I have the first revision installed as I heard about it on S-M some time back.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    you can download it here http://www.tcmagazine.info/modules.php?modid=4&action=show&id=333

    Description: allow nForce2 chipset based motherboards with AMD cpus
    to use C2/C1 idle state (S2K bus disconnection without HALT detection)
    reduce idle/load temperatures by 1-10c degrees!

    Changes:
    added USB device wakeup S3 powerstate

    Note:
    Use it only if your motherboard support S3 wakeup by USB device!
    Author is not responsible for any damage
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    ok ...I've been tinkering with an idea of a case top box to mount my radiator, fan and pump. I've got a box on top now that is nothing but layers of foam to deaden the an noise. This box will contain some insulation for sound but will also house the equipment. Heat is exhausted outward and drawn from the case.

    So what do you think?
    wc.gif 66.9K
  • madmatmadmat
    edited February 2005
    If I might make a suggestion, with a Whitewater block and the added head it creates if you find that you're getting higher temps than you hoped for get a second pump and run them in series to make up for the head loss.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited February 2005
    madmat wrote:
    If I might make a suggestion, with a Whitewater block and the added head it creates if you find that you're getting higher temps than you hoped for get a second pump and run them in series to make up for the head loss.
    Thanks mat. I actually thought about that same situation. I planned on adding a whole new radiator/pump for a future gpu/chipset series and at that time I'll probably add the second pump to this series if needed.

    I'm not sure which model pump I have though cause it's not labeled. So I'm assuming the same specs as the csp-750m2 for now. There's a new csp-mag now which is just the newer version but not sure how/if the specs differ.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    shouldn't I use teflon tape to assure against leaks?
    I mean I don't have any handy but if it's necessary I will definitely stop and get some. I just find it hard to imagine not using it at the radiator barbs since it's metal to metal. Any advice on this?
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    csimon wrote:
    shouldn't I use teflon tape to assure against leaks?
    I mean I don't have any handy but if it's necessary I will definitely stop and get some. I just find it hard to imagine not using it at the radiator barbs since it's metal to metal. Any advice on this?
    Chris
    You should use the pip[e tape on anything you assemble that uses threads for coupling and just use clamps or pressure fittings for the rest.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    mtgoat wrote:
    Chris
    You should use the pip[e tape on anything you assemble that uses threads for coupling and just use clamps or pressure fittings for the rest.

    Thanks for your response larry.
    Once I removed the barbs from the tank I noticed a layer of silicone on the threads so I cleaned them realy well and reapplied my own stuff. I'll have to show you what it it. It's a (water based) "lube" of some sort. It works wet and dry areas and is a silicone type of sealer. It promotes twice the protection of teflon tape according to the label and I use it on my pool pump apparatus when I need to. I'll check it today to make sure that it made a seal and if not I'll clean it off and I'm sure I have tape or silicone somewhere outside.

    So ...how do you prefer your equipment flow?
    I' thinking pump>rad>block>res>pump ...what do you think?
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    I like pump > blocks > rad > back to pump. The rad has the highest restriction and as such should theoretically be at the end of the line. Also, Don't put your res inline in the system. You should put it just before the pump on the suction side via a 'T' fitting. This way the pump will draw the liquid from the res as needed as opposed to air in the system. Set up in this manner my system only took 6 hrs to bleed itself without any josteling of the case. By putting it inline you only increase resistance without any benefeit.
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    Chris
    Here's a pic of my previous system with some explanations and flow arrows.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    Here's the revised box almost ready for assembly ...just a tad bit more sanding to smooth out the rough cuts. Hopefully fluidxp will be in tomorrow so I can get this going this weekend.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    mtgoat wrote:
    Chris
    Here's a pic of my previous system with some explanations and flow arrows.

    I like the idea that the res is the highest point in the loop. I never thought of putting a "t" between the rad and pump. So that worked ok goat?
    What's next since you got rid of that wc?
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    csimon wrote:
    I like the idea that the res is the highest point in the loop. I never thought of putting a "t" between the rad and pump. So that worked ok goat?
    What's next since you got rid of that wc?
    That worked great! Just like the overflow tank on your cars cooling system.

    As for what's next......Look here and also take a peek at my revised sig below. ;)
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    I finished cutting the holes in the scrap plywood today. I'll probably shave about 3/8" off the back end for a tighter fit over the case but then I'm ready to assemble and seal it.
    I'll probably have to come up with better air intake but this should do for now. I was thinking that most of the air would be drawn from the blowhole which I need to open up once I get everything apart. I've always wanted to do that anyway because of the restriction and if I ever sell the case I'll just get a black finger guard.
    I keep wondering about the bay-res though. It will be significantly lower than the radiator so I'm sure I'll have to tilt the case and have enough slack to pull it out of the front and fill with a funnel. That will be a challenge.
    I suppose there's no way to start the pump without starting the computer or buying a relay switch is there?
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    csimon wrote:
    I suppose there's no way to start the pump without starting the computer or buying a relay switch is there?
    Unplug the ATX connector from the board and jump start the PSU by connecting the green wire with any black wire.;)

    Could you make your box 2" taller, or is it too late for that? That way you could put the res in the box at the top. :cool:
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited March 2005
    mtgoat wrote:
    Unplug the ATX connector from the board and jump start the PSU by connecting the green wire with any black wire.;)

    Could you make your box 2" taller, or is it too late for that? That way you could put the res in the box at the top. :cool:
    :thumbsup:
    Too late for the box I'm not cutting any more wood. I ended up with a sliver in my eye that day. Tracie flushed my eye twice and well the emergency room persone did it twice again. They both looked everywhere and couldn't find it. They also checked for an abrassion.
    Next morning it rubbed right out but I'm leaving the saw alone this week! LOL
    Instead I used the chainsaw all weekend! ;D
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