ok it's coming soon I swear.
I promised Tracie I would finish a drawing project before I tear the computer apart because she claims that everytime I take it apart to fix it I always break it!!!
Actually ...I can't think of a better way of convincing her I need more components! :shakehead
Ok by this time next week we should see something I swear.
I should begin tomorrow. I think I'll cut the hole in the bottom of the case and put the box there with the case on top and funnel the heat toward the back. I'll prolly sketch it tomorrow.
ok here's the final version of what I'll more than likely go with. As you can see I've totally rethought the mounting configuration but the box is that same cause it's already been built of foam core and sponge foam for noise.
I plan on starting the actual assembly of the fan and core tonight ...wish me luck that I get enough time.
You mean, you hope the "Boss" doen't assign you to any special projects.
actually she made plans for herself ...which left me babysitting!!
Oh well I told her friday is my day to take apart computer ...so she babysits and I play!
My graphics are corrupted totally.
I'm not sure if water leaked down to the power moex or if the case temps just overwhelmed the card. My case temps are ridiculously high now.
So while I rma card I'll be thinking of allternates to get this thing cool again.
I've got the temps stable again.
I replaced the blowhole fan back to the smII and it makes all the difference in the world. case temps aren't what they could be but I'm running the case fans at 50% throttle as opposed to 75% so I guess it's ok for now.
cpu temps are pretty good too ...I'm not complaining but I think I can do a better job w/ a few elbows and stuff like that.
0
Mt_GoatHead Cheezy KnobPflugerville (north of Austin)Icrontian
edited March 2005
Chris,
It looks good.
I think you are having a similar issue to what was going on with my set-up. The rad holds a lot of heat that just radiates back into the case. And the airflow pattern isn't a conventional pattern anymore so it needs to be modified, thus the blow hole woking. I don't know why but I thought you were going to make your box a straight though flow with it separate from the case. That way it wouldn't affect the rest of the system and keep temps lower. Also, do you see what I mean about how shallow the shroud is that they sell with that rad? Amazing how much more effort it is to plan out and execute a custom water cooling set-up!
I think you are having a similar issue to what was going on with my set-up. The rad holds a lot of heat that just radiates back into the case. And the airflow pattern isn't a conventional pattern anymore so it needs to be modified, thus the blow hole woking. I don't know why but I thought you were going to make your box a straight though flow with it separate from the case. That way it wouldn't affect the rest of the system and keep temps lower. Also, do you see what I mean about how shallow the shroud is that they sell with that rad? Amazing how much more effort it is to plan out and execute a custom water cooling set-up!
Yes I see exactly what you meant now!
Yes the first idea with the rad and pump on top would have helped tremendously with a flow thru effect. I think that the biggest issue I was having was with the vid card ...I think it was overheating and adding heat into the case. temps were getting up into the high 50's ...now it's steady at about mid 40 full load and a cheap pci vid card.
The problem I think was the vga silencer and rad fan pulling against each other and naturally the rad fan won.
what scares me most is that the pump is so damned quiet and the water so clear that I can't tell at all if it's running unless I monitor the pump rpm's in abit eq. I hate to mess up the fluidxp so I doubt I will be adding die unless they approve it first.
When I redo it I plan on using the bottom hole for intake with a filter ...then I'll do the top flow thru thing and see what happens from there. It should be interesting. One thing very strange is that the rear fan has almost no effect whatsoever ...I have it turned down to 25% throttle now with no effect. I'm experimenting now. front fans seem optimal at 50% and rear at 25% ...I've yet to experiment with the blowhole but that fan seems most important the further I go.
Also, do you see what I mean about how shallow the shroud is that they sell with that rad? Amazing how much more effort it is to plan out and execute a custom water cooling set-up!
Yes Larry...the shallow shroud sucketh! :bawling:
ok I think I can get lower sys temps by moving the raptor up to the 3.5 bay or maybe even to the 5.25 bay. Right now I'm convinced that it is obstructing the air intake and adding extra heat into the case. I've noticed this in the past that's why I never mounted it there but I didn't want it too close to the pump but I'll figure out a way to get it somewhere up and out of the way for now.
Also I've got front fans at 50% and both rear and blowhole fans turned all of the way down barely spinning.
It's so cool out tonight so I can't get a fair idle temp reading but this is what I'm getting atm:
And also 20 mins later these are my load temps:
omg I'm almost positive I have the pump installed backwards!
Now I gotta drain the bastard and fight the unholy clipless barbs which I clipped anyway cause I had no clue they were clipless! :bawling:
ok for teh record ...sys temp wise it make absolutely no difference whether you run the pump backwords or forwards in this configuration ...the damb thing still gets piping hot. Or at least way hotter than my system is used to or can handle.
My video card rma was received today by newegg ...I need it back soon cause I'm having bad et withdrawls.
Anyway lesson learned ...do not put teh rad inside the case = bad idea.
I'll build another ghetto box for the top of the rig and cut out the blowhole. I plan on putting my radiator and pump inside there piping downward. I also plan on putting my bayres and cable modem above the rad box as well.
I'll sketch it out tomorrow but it's not much different than what I've already posted above.
btw ...I'm running a tinker load @ 1.65v & 2.2ghz ...the temps are still as high as the abit eq above.
Also ...during the night the temps got so unbarebly hot that I got BSOD and no boot this morning. This afternoon I called for jim but he's offshore. I fiddled around and got a post finally and I'm up for the weekend so it looks like I can autocad sketch ...thank goodness.
this is insane ...I turn my 4 case fans all the way or all the way down and the temps remain the same. And I'm using 2 different temp software to boot.
0
Mt_GoatHead Cheezy KnobPflugerville (north of Austin)Icrontian
edited April 2005
Chris,
I have a suggestion that would work quite well for what you are tying to do and it may only require modding your existing box. It was also what I assumed you were going to do in the first place. And is kind of along the lines of some of te newer case designs just now emerging. Move the rad to the box so it is inline with the front 120 fan and about 2 inches from the fan (turn the fan so it is sucking air out of the box). Mount it so that it is sealed and the front 2 inches creates a plenum chamber so the pressure is equalized across the entire surface of the fins. Then put a 120 fan in the rear of the box blowig in. You will also want to make a plate out of almost anything to keep most of the air in the case separate from the box but it doesn't need to be perfect. Also, if you have the res inline you should connect it via a single 'T' going into the pump as suggested earlier. This will eliminate a great deal of head loss as well as keeping warm liquid out of the case.
Here is my idea for the box. (pardon the quick PS drawing!;))
yeah i can seal the rad 2" away from the fan in this config ...only I'll reverse everything so the fan blows hot air out of the rear.
I won't be using the present box because it's made of foam core. It's easy to make and I picked up some more scraps friday so I have more to play with. Also ...it's kinda like wet cereal atm!
So I estimate I need:
2 x 120 filter/finger guard
2 x 120mm fan
1 x 1/2" tee
2' x 1/2" hose
I will keep a 120mm at the bottom to cover the hole there and add a filter/guard. If I ever sell the case I don't want it seem as an afterthought cause I did plan the hole to begin with.
I may spring for another pump not sure yet.
Mt_GoatHead Cheezy KnobPflugerville (north of Austin)Icrontian
edited April 2005
Chris
Why don't you leave the box on the bottom with the res and pump where they currently are? That would keep them where they have the best chance to to their repective jobs. I am also a firm beleiver in the one hose res system. I got that from Mack in my thread when I was looking for ideas. Actually he doesn't even use one at all. He simply uses ahose to fill with then plugs it when full and bled. In a closed loop you never really use any after all the air is bled out of the system. An in-line res just increases head pressure and retards cooling capacity.
PS
I still have my GPU block if you are interested and would make you a good deal on it.
Comments
I promised Tracie I would finish a drawing project before I tear the computer apart because she claims that everytime I take it apart to fix it I always break it!!!
Actually ...I can't think of a better way of convincing her I need more components! :shakehead
Ok by this time next week we should see something I swear.
What exactly do you do for a living so that your "boss" approved a water cooling setup anyway?
That isnt exactly a normal corporate america IT department approval project.
Or was the "boss" on this project like my own "boss". The wifey....
Tex
I plan on starting the actual assembly of the fan and core tonight ...wish me luck that I get enough time.
Oh well I told her friday is my day to take apart computer ...so she babysits and I play!
1. dusty computer case & dtek box
2. dtek box open w/ instructions & 7' 1/2" hose on top
2. Inside the case we have dust galore.
2. measuring for fan/shroud/heatcore placement
2. front view
2. a different view
2. different view
2. folding@homesweethome
My graphics are corrupted totally.
I'm not sure if water leaked down to the power moex or if the case temps just overwhelmed the card. My case temps are ridiculously high now.
So while I rma card I'll be thinking of allternates to get this thing cool again.
I replaced the blowhole fan back to the smII and it makes all the difference in the world. case temps aren't what they could be but I'm running the case fans at 50% throttle as opposed to 75% so I guess it's ok for now.
cpu temps are pretty good too ...I'm not complaining but I think I can do a better job w/ a few elbows and stuff like that.
It looks good.
I think you are having a similar issue to what was going on with my set-up. The rad holds a lot of heat that just radiates back into the case. And the airflow pattern isn't a conventional pattern anymore so it needs to be modified, thus the blow hole woking. I don't know why but I thought you were going to make your box a straight though flow with it separate from the case. That way it wouldn't affect the rest of the system and keep temps lower. Also, do you see what I mean about how shallow the shroud is that they sell with that rad? Amazing how much more effort it is to plan out and execute a custom water cooling set-up!
Yes the first idea with the rad and pump on top would have helped tremendously with a flow thru effect. I think that the biggest issue I was having was with the vid card ...I think it was overheating and adding heat into the case. temps were getting up into the high 50's ...now it's steady at about mid 40 full load and a cheap pci vid card.
The problem I think was the vga silencer and rad fan pulling against each other and naturally the rad fan won.
what scares me most is that the pump is so damned quiet and the water so clear that I can't tell at all if it's running unless I monitor the pump rpm's in abit eq. I hate to mess up the fluidxp so I doubt I will be adding die unless they approve it first.
When I redo it I plan on using the bottom hole for intake with a filter ...then I'll do the top flow thru thing and see what happens from there. It should be interesting. One thing very strange is that the rear fan has almost no effect whatsoever ...I have it turned down to 25% throttle now with no effect. I'm experimenting now. front fans seem optimal at 50% and rear at 25% ...I've yet to experiment with the blowhole but that fan seems most important the further I go.
ok I think I can get lower sys temps by moving the raptor up to the 3.5 bay or maybe even to the 5.25 bay. Right now I'm convinced that it is obstructing the air intake and adding extra heat into the case. I've noticed this in the past that's why I never mounted it there but I didn't want it too close to the pump but I'll figure out a way to get it somewhere up and out of the way for now.
Also I've got front fans at 50% and both rear and blowhole fans turned all of the way down barely spinning.
It's so cool out tonight so I can't get a fair idle temp reading but this is what I'm getting atm:
And also 20 mins later these are my load temps:
Now I gotta drain the bastard and fight the unholy clipless barbs which I clipped anyway cause I had no clue they were clipless! :bawling:
My video card rma was received today by newegg ...I need it back soon cause I'm having bad et withdrawls.
Anyway lesson learned ...do not put teh rad inside the case = bad idea.
I'll build another ghetto box for the top of the rig and cut out the blowhole. I plan on putting my radiator and pump inside there piping downward. I also plan on putting my bayres and cable modem above the rad box as well.
I'll sketch it out tomorrow but it's not much different than what I've already posted above.
btw ...I'm running a tinker load @ 1.65v & 2.2ghz ...the temps are still as high as the abit eq above.
Also ...during the night the temps got so unbarebly hot that I got BSOD and no boot this morning. This afternoon I called for jim but he's offshore. I fiddled around and got a post finally and I'm up for the weekend so it looks like I can autocad sketch ...thank goodness.
I have a suggestion that would work quite well for what you are tying to do and it may only require modding your existing box. It was also what I assumed you were going to do in the first place. And is kind of along the lines of some of te newer case designs just now emerging. Move the rad to the box so it is inline with the front 120 fan and about 2 inches from the fan (turn the fan so it is sucking air out of the box). Mount it so that it is sealed and the front 2 inches creates a plenum chamber so the pressure is equalized across the entire surface of the fins. Then put a 120 fan in the rear of the box blowig in. You will also want to make a plate out of almost anything to keep most of the air in the case separate from the box but it doesn't need to be perfect. Also, if you have the res inline you should connect it via a single 'T' going into the pump as suggested earlier. This will eliminate a great deal of head loss as well as keeping warm liquid out of the case.
Here is my idea for the box. (pardon the quick PS drawing!;))
Let me sketch and get back in a sec.
I won't be using the present box because it's made of foam core. It's easy to make and I picked up some more scraps friday so I have more to play with. Also ...it's kinda like wet cereal atm!
So I estimate I need:
2 x 120 filter/finger guard
2 x 120mm fan
1 x 1/2" tee
2' x 1/2" hose
I will keep a 120mm at the bottom to cover the hole there and add a filter/guard. If I ever sell the case I don't want it seem as an afterthought cause I did plan the hole to begin with.
I may spring for another pump not sure yet.
Why don't you leave the box on the bottom with the res and pump where they currently are? That would keep them where they have the best chance to to their repective jobs. I am also a firm beleiver in the one hose res system. I got that from Mack in my thread when I was looking for ideas. Actually he doesn't even use one at all. He simply uses ahose to fill with then plugs it when full and bled. In a closed loop you never really use any after all the air is bled out of the system. An in-line res just increases head pressure and retards cooling capacity.
PS
I still have my GPU block if you are interested and would make you a good deal on it.