DELL P1110 monitor too bright

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Comments

  • ParamedicParamedic Texas
    edited October 2009
    Goldfish,

    You win my vote as the most frugal and second most resourceful person in this thread. Obviously the most resourceful person in this thread was the original poster that helped so many of us! I second Goldfish's hearty thanks to all the "experts" helping us noobies!

    Paramedic
  • edited November 2009
    Hell Everybody! This is my first post. I read the whole discussion and I am very thankful for all the good advices. Now I need an advice for my own, as I have a problem with my good IBM P260 which is, ta-da, too brigth. I want to regulate the brightness with windas which I already have succesfully installed. Now I bought this cable: http://produkt.conrad.de/45973183/rs232-ttl-logic-level-converter-w232.htm

    Is this the right one? It was quite expensive, so I need to kkno if it is the right one before I open the package. Otherwise I can`t return it to the shop anymore.

    I am glad for any help.

    Nuwanda
  • edited November 2009
    Hi,

    I have a Dell P1130 with a manufactured date of December 2003, owned from new. It has had the brightness problem for some time now.

    I'm not good with soldering so I will need to purchase a premade RS232 cable.

    Is this the correct one?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220508111096

    If not, can someone link to the correct cable on eBay?

    Thanks.
  • spundtspundt South Carolina New
    edited November 2009
    I have a Sony PGM-100P1MD with a strong green hue. I have installed Windas, but I cannot locate this model number. I have tried a number of the chassis listed but have not been able to save the file without an error of some sort. Usually a ECS sytax error. Does anyone know what the chassis type for this model is or if there is another way to resolve this? Any help would be appreciated.
  • edited November 2009
    First thing I would like to say is great thread it saved my monitor from the trash. I have the Dell P1110 of the options posted I deiced to go with the resistor modification to fix my monitor. The first thing I had to do was track down a website that had the resistors that I needed, I called RadioShack hoping I could buy it locally so I didn’t have to pay $10-$15 on shipping and incredibly tiny and light resistor but they only had resistors up to 1 Mohms at least that’s what I was told on the phone. I found a website online http://www.futurlec.com/ that sells the resistor(s) needed and charges only $4.00 shipping for orders up to $29 dollars, I looked up futurlec online and read a lot of bad reviews mostly about how slow they were but considering how cheap they were I took the risk and ordered from them anyway I had no problems with the order.

    I ordered the 4.7,5.6,6.8,8.2 and 10 Mohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor because I didn’t know how bad (Bright) my monitor was compared to others that fixed theirs, resistors are only 15 cents apiece from futurlec.com. For the quantity I choose 1 but when I got it and opened it up apparently they come in packs of 10 so you can practice soldering if needed.

    I followed http://eric.hutzelman.com/articles/1 guide that was posted on this forum. I did not have any trouble removing the monitor case once I figured out how the tabs worked; I managed to remove the case without breaking any. I have photos of the tabs so you know what you are dealing with. I will try and attach photos that I took of the tabs.

    I read on eric hutzelmans website it said that the original resistor is 10 Mohm. When I read the colors on my resistor it was yellow,blue,green,gold which is a 4.6 Mohm resistor (Non-Standard 5% E24 value whatever that means) according to the color code calculator http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistorcalculator.php (and I made sure I was reading the R459 resistor) I tested this color code calculator with all the resistors I bought and it was right every time. Now I was totally confused as to whether I should clip off the old resistor, leave it place and solder one in parallel or even which resistor of the ones I bought I should use. I took a shot in the dark and soldered a 10 Mohm resistor in parallel with the one that was there and I must say the results are great looks brand new very good black level with brightness set at 33. Some people said don’t use the color return feature after soldering a resistor on, I used the color return feature without any bad side effects whatsoever.

    For $4.75 and the help of this forum my monitor has been working and looking great for about a month now thx.
  • edited December 2009
    pbg157 wrote:
    When I try to "Save Data to File", I get an error box reading "ECS syntax Error NG! NG! NG!". Then another "ECS syntax Error". It will then show a "Save as" dialog box, and it will fill the 5k .dat file with "ERR" data, with yet more "ECS syntax error" messages along the way.
    - Philip

    I was fighting with this and it's just a poorly designed GUI on WinDAS. If you go to the Setup>Model Sel menu, you get a list of models in the WinDAS database. Rather than just clicking once on the correct model DOUBLE click on it so that it shows up at the top of the window of the model list (next to the "Select Model" label. Now when you go back to the main window, it will say "Model Name: <your monitor>"

    Now everything else will work and the nasty syntax warnings will go away.

    However, the "NG" warnings indicate a different problem. It means that either a) your cabling is bad or not properly plugged in or b) you've got the leads mixed up or c) the monitor isn't turned on or d) you don't have a signal going to the monitor.

    The WinDAS documentation is extremely poor and little things necessary to get up and running are entirely left out or are so poorly implemented in the software that it's hit and miss. Good luck!
  • edited December 2009
    geotopia wrote:
    The WinDAS documentation is extremely poor and little things necessary to get up and running are entirely left out or are so poorly implemented in the software that it's hit and miss. Good luck!

    I should clarify, the forum threads and the third party instructions are GREAT, but the Sony documentation is piss poor. Glad they made the utility so we can revive and perfect our Trinitrons, but they didn't spend much time on the GUI or the Instructions:)
  • edited January 2010
    I posted here a year and a half about a Dell P1110 that went 'bezerk' with it's OSD. I found a replacement and by the time it had arrived the first one fixed itself. I happily sat behind dual Dell P1110's for a year and a half.

    Now that same monitor has fritzed out in a some bizarre way. I came back to my computer which had told both monitors to power down as part of the desktops power scheme and only oen came back on. It gave a green LED and even went 'Click' with the electrical switching that CRTs do but the screen was blank. Not just rendering 'black' but 'off' blank. I know the difference between a screen drawing black and one that's off.

    However otherwise this monitor seems to work fine. It stays with a green LED when it has signal, it goes to standby when it loses signal. I can apparently even 'blindly' control it through the OSD buttons even! It degauses on power on, and you hear it go 'click' twice soon after. It's like the cathode ray tube itself just isn't turning on but otherwise it's fine.

    Ideas or should I just seek out another replacement?
  • edited January 2010
    DJ_Izumi wrote:
    I posted here a year and a half about a Dell P1110 that went 'bezerk' with it's OSD. I found a replacement and by the time it had arrived the first one fixed itself. I happily sat behind dual Dell P1110's for a year and a half.

    Now that same monitor has fritzed out in a some bizarre way. I came back to my computer which had told both monitors to power down as part of the desktops power scheme and only oen came back on. It gave a green LED and even went 'Click' with the electrical switching that CRTs do but the screen was blank. Not just rendering 'black' but 'off' blank. I know the difference between a screen drawing black and one that's off.

    However otherwise this monitor seems to work fine. It stays with a green LED when it has signal, it goes to standby when it loses signal. I can apparently even 'blindly' control it through the OSD buttons even! It degauses on power on, and you hear it go 'click' twice soon after. It's like the cathode ray tube itself just isn't turning on but otherwise it's fine.

    Ideas or should I just seek out another replacement?

    Awesome monitor. Though I've had to lower the G2 voltage twice.
    I have one that has started to do the same thing. It won't turn on when it is 'cold'. I have to run a blow dryer into the lower right side for about 30 seconds before it'll turn on. If I *leave* it on, it's fine. I can even turn it off for a few minutes at a time without problems. But if it cools down too much, it behaves exactly as you describe - the power light goes green then turns to orange flashing standby. I hear there's a warmup circuit in these things. Maybe it's getting tired...

    Anyway, good luck if you try the blow dryer.
  • edited January 2010
    Alidor wrote:
    Awesome monitor. Though I've had to lower the G2 voltage twice.
    I have one that has started to do the same thing. It won't turn on when it is 'cold'. I have to run a blow dryer into the lower right side for about 30 seconds before it'll turn on. If I *leave* it on, it's fine. I can even turn it off for a few minutes at a time without problems. But if it cools down too much, it behaves exactly as you describe - the power light goes green then turns to orange flashing standby. I hear there's a warmup circuit in these things. Maybe it's getting tired...

    Anyway, good luck if you try the blow dryer.

    So maybe I'm looking at a short in the heaters? That sounds, uhh, potentially dangerious to repair. I got these things for free, paid $20 for one to be delivered. I'm leaning strongly towards replacing the P1110 if I can, though all I can find in local online ads right now are P991s. :( If that fix works, it probably don't help much since that sounds like a pain in the ass to do on a regular basis.

    But I'll give it a shot out of curiosity, I'll report my results tomorrow.
  • edited January 2010
    Alidor wrote:
    Awesome monitor. Though I've had to lower the G2 voltage twice.
    I have one that has started to do the same thing. It won't turn on when it is 'cold'. I have to run a blow dryer into the lower right side for about 30 seconds before it'll turn on. If I *leave* it on, it's fine. I can even turn it off for a few minutes at a time without problems. But if it cools down too much, it behaves exactly as you describe - the power light goes green then turns to orange flashing standby. I hear there's a warmup circuit in these things. Maybe it's getting tired...

    Anyway, good luck if you try the blow dryer.

    No dice, heated it up for like 4 mins and the tube still didn't initialize. The whole thing seemed pretty warm all over but nothing.
  • LeonardoLeonardo Wake up and smell the glaciers Eagle River, Alaska Icrontian
    edited January 2010
    DJ, although I too think it's fun to tinker with computer components, why waste your time on ancient CRT monitors? Wouldn't it be so much easier to just toss it out (recycle, if your local area has that capability) and replace it? If you are on a tight budget (like zero moneyJ), you can get about as many CRTs as you want for free. Keep the ones that work and simply dispose of those that are broken. Look on Craigslist and find people looking for someone to come take theirs away.
  • edited January 2010
    Leonardo wrote:
    DJ, although I too think it's fun to tinker with computer components, why waste your time on ancient CRT monitors? Wouldn't it be so much easier to just toss it out (recycle, if your local area has that capability) and replace it? If you are on a tight budget (like zero moneyJ), you can get about as many CRTs as you want for free. Keep the ones that work and simply dispose of those that are broken. Look on Craigslist and find people looking for someone to come take theirs away.

    A quick fix would be handy but I'm not gonna invest in lots of efforts. Honestly it's not about budget, heck I Have two of these P1110's I just lost the luxury of having dual monitors for now. I'm trying to locate another P1110 or failing that a P991. Honestly, these are probably the second best CRT monitors that were ever on the consumer market. They also make Dreamcast games look AWESOME over the VGA cable. You can't get things like these new.

    I could get lots of crappy CRTs but if I'm putting 70lbs of leaded glass on my desk, I want a Trinitron tube. :3
  • edited March 2010
    Hi My first post here.

    It appears that my Dell P1130 monitor problem might be fixed with a resistor swap, but the link mentioned in the following post from 2007 no longer works. (Was doing a google search to see if I could fix the monitor problem before replacement.)

    I am a full time professional futures trader and run a desktop with 6 monitors. Prefer CRTs to LCDs. I have 2 monitors that are getting old and now display diagonal light gray/white lines running from lower left to upper right about 3 cm apart. These monitors have also lost the sharpness of the black and are no longer crisp like they use to be. (Difficult to read fine text and white backgrounds are "dirty".)

    Does this sound like the problem that could be solved with this resistor swap mentioned below? I am handy with tools and can usually figure things out if I have instructions to work with. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!

    Dan


    To all: (((Especially those who did resistor swap and still got too dark of results not matter what))))

    I ran into 3 situations along the way...

    First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...

    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/

    There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...

    Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.


    ---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......



    Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...

    I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...

    Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...

    The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.



    I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.

    The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.

    With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.

    A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...



    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/


    Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!

    psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help

    Until next time...

    --CHRIS!!! ;)[/quote]
  • edited March 2010
    DanT wrote:
    Hi My first post here.

    It appears that my Dell P1130 monitor problem might be fixed with a resistor swap, but the link mentioned in the following post from 2007 no longer works. (Was doing a google search to see if I could fix the monitor problem rather than replacement.)

    I am a full time professional futures trader and run a desktop with 6 monitors. Prefer CRTs to LCDs. I have 2 monitors that have started to display diagonal light gray/white lines running from lower left to upper right about 3 cm apart. These monitors have also lost the sharpness of the black and are no longer crisp like they use to be... and are getting worse over time. (Difficult to read fine text and white backgrounds are "dirty".)

    Does this sound like the problem that could be solved with this resistor swap mentioned below? I am handy with tools and can usually figure things out if I have instructions to work with. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!

    Dan


    To all: (((Especially those who did resistor swap and still got too dark of results not matter what))))

    I ran into 3 situations along the way...

    First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...

    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/

    There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...

    Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.


    ---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......



    Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...

    I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...

    Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...

    The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.



    I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.

    The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.

    With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.

    A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...



    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/


    Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!

    psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help

    Until next time...

    --CHRIS!!! ;)
    [/quote]
  • edited March 2010
    I set the brightness down on both of these P1130 monitors. Was psyched to see that this essentially fixed the problem on one of them (went down from 60, where it had been set for years, to 20).

    The other one is much better, but not good enough yet. The brightness setting was at 20. I went down to 0 but cannot go any further... though if I could I suspect that it would help.

    Given this additional information, does this sound like a problem that a reistor replacement would resolove... to essentially allow me to go lower on the birghtness setting?

    Interesting to see that the diagonal lines have vitually disappeared from the first monitor just by setting the bightness down to 20. These diagonal lines are still present on the other monitor, though less pronounced.

    Thanks for any advice on this...

    Dan
  • edited April 2010
    Can someone please help me get WinDAS working with my FW-9011? I'm running WinDAS in XP mode under Win7.

    I attach this cable (http://techref.massmind.org/techref/io/serial/rlc2.htm) as shown

    ecs2.png

    The motherboard I am using is an Asus M2N32-Sli Deluxe. I have the serial port set to auto in the BIOS.

    I choose the model of my monitor in WinDAS. I configure WinDAS to use COM1 as the ECS Port and I set SG to MANUAL.

    Whenever I click "Save data to file", there is a five second pause, then an error pops up saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition!"

    Any and all help is appreciated.
  • edited April 2010
    Help me. Lay out on rapidshare worker Windas,please.I Am sorry for my bad English.
  • edited April 2010
    innocenceisdeath
    <CITE class=ic-username></CITE>
    <CITE class=ic-username>Check up Converter ECS in a DB9.
    Pinouts:

    DSUBx9 (PC)
    RxD 2
    14 (MAX232)
    TxD 3
    13 (MAX232)
    GND 5
    GND 15 (MAX232)

    ECS (PORT)
    GND 1
    GND 15 (MAX232)
    +5V 2
    16 (MAX232)
    RxD 3
    12 (MAX232)
    TxD 4
    11 (MAX232)

    I Am sorry for my bad English. <!-- / message --><!-- attachments --><!-- / attachments --><!-- sig --><!-- / sig --></CITE>
  • edited April 2010
    Also pay attention to the scheme{plan} of inclusion of a microcircuit:
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited June 2010
    OK> I bought a Dell P1110 21" Trinitron for $50 about 2 years ago, had it for a few months before setting it up and...too bright (surprise!). I was given a P991 that works great so I have been using that for about a year, but when I got my nVidia (ASUS) video card I saw the adjustements and thought I could make enough tweaks to make the P1110 work. Close, but not quite. A couple years ago I was looking for a repair place to fix the thing and ran across the resistor/DAS hacks to make it work. I mean, almost 20 years as a tech, should be easy. Couldn't get the cover off. So, for most of it's life with me it has sat on a shelf.

    I ordered the cable mentioned in the posts from massmind, and found some tutorials, and the software (about 3 versions of it...) all yesterday, and am waiting impatiently for the cable to get here.

    A lot of thread readin and googling turns up geocities/gregua/windas, which is now a broken link. I am trying to find what else I can tweak with DAS, like convergence, color, etc. Of course I want to get the brightness back to a usable level first. There is a fair amount of info on that; you have to hunt a bit but you can find it. But any other tweaks aren't there to find. I'm also seeing some posts saying the massmind cable doesn't work! I plan on doing this as soon as the cable gets here, any advice, good links, etc appreciated!

    This appears to be a really GOOD monitor, except for the brightness issue. I do photo work, so having a big, bright screen is a must; modern LCDs are just getting to the point of a mediocre CRT where that's concerned, but they are $$$$.

    Thanks, from a n00b!
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited June 2010
    Can someone please help me get WinDAS working with my FW-9011? I'm running WinDAS in XP mode under Win7.

    Whenever I click "Save data to file", there is a five second pause, then an error pops up saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition!"

    Any and all help is appreciated.


    I see this is a couple months old now, have you had any success?

    I noticed on Massmind's webpage it says "CTS may have to be shorted to RTS on some models" and "RTS may need to be shorted to CTS on some models"

    If needed, the old paperclip jumper may be required!
  • edited June 2010
    hachiroku wrote:
    I see this is a couple months old now, have you had any success?

    I noticed on Massmind's webpage it says "CTS may have to be shorted to RTS on some models" and "RTS may need to be shorted to CTS on some models"

    If needed, the old paperclip jumper may be required!
    Unfortunately not, I have not actually had access to this monitor since the response. I shall be able to try again though come the weekend :) I'll keep the paperclip jumper solution in mind ;)

    Did you have any luck with your cable?
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited June 2010
    Unfortunately not, I have not actually had access to this monitor since the response. I shall be able to try again though come the weekend :) I'll keep the paperclip jumper solution in mind ;)

    Did you have any luck with your cable?


    Well.....

    It took a LOT of fanagling, and I had to swap the red and yellow wires on the monitor end of the connector, and I had to plug...unplug...plug...unplug...on about the 15th try I clicked to save the settings and WHAM! Up came a location box to save the files! I saved the original parameters, but, instead of following instructions I went into the ADJUSTMENT menu and adjusted a LOT of things! Pincushioning, brightness, convergence, tint, everything!

    SO, then I removed the cable, and went to push the MENU button on the monitor, and got a little green key on the left lower side of the screen. The OSD Menu is LOCKED and cannot be unlocked!!!!

    THe monitor is much better, it's not as bright and I have been using the nVidia settings to adjust it, but I need to get to the OSD to fine tune it.

    After about 25 more attempts to connect and change the OSD lock, I finally gave up. I had to lower the resolution of the screen a bit, and the colors are a bit funky (the OSD menu could prbably FIX this! >:( ), but it is better than it was.

    I guess it's just an old, old monitor, but I *LIKE* CRTs....

    I'll try fiddling around with it again this weekend. I know I had to change the port setting on the laptop, and change it back, and change it again, so I think I'll try another laptop and see if I can reconnect.
  • edited June 2010
    hachiroku wrote:
    Well.....

    It took a LOT of fanagling, and I had to swap the red and yellow wires on the monitor end of the connector, and I had to plug...unplug...plug...unplug...on about the 15th try I clicked to save the settings and WHAM! Up came a location box to save the files! I saved the original parameters, but, instead of following instructions I went into the ADJUSTMENT menu and adjusted a LOT of things! Pincushioning, brightness, convergence, tint, everything!

    SO, then I removed the cable, and went to push the MENU button on the monitor, and got a little green key on the left lower side of the screen. The OSD Menu is LOCKED and cannot be unlocked!!!!

    THe monitor is much better, it's not as bright and I have been using the nVidia settings to adjust it, but I need to get to the OSD to fine tune it.

    After about 25 more attempts to connect and change the OSD lock, I finally gave up. I had to lower the resolution of the screen a bit, and the colors are a bit funky (the OSD menu could prbably FIX this! >:( ), but it is better than it was.

    I guess it's just an old, old monitor, but I *LIKE* CRTs....

    I'll try fiddling around with it again this weekend. I know I had to change the port setting on the laptop, and change it back, and change it again, so I think I'll try another laptop and see if I can reconnect.

    Oh man, that sounds rough. Lots of people have had their OSDs locked. I think most of them can fix it though :) I can't remember how they do it. I'll see if I can find it for you.

    Here you go:
    The OSD "locks-up" when the user fails to "save" the calibration/adjustment setting BEFORE exiting WinDAS. What you need to do is to start WinDAS, making absolutely sure the the probe is correctly connected to the maintenance port of the monitor and that the GDM-FW900 is selected from the "Set up" "Model Select" menu pull-down; then go to "Adjustment", then to "Procedure", then to "Final Settings", then it saves the current data, then Exit. Once you do that, then the OSD will be "unlocked".
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited June 2010
    Oh man, that sounds rough. Lots of people have had their OSDs locked. I think most of them can fix it though :) I can't remember how they do it. I'll see if I can find it for you.

    Here you go:


    Thanks. But I can't get it to communicate anymore. Don't know if it's the chip, the connector in the monitor, or??? I thought I saved the config, but I guess not.

    If I had known this was a Sony, I never would have bought it.I knew it was a Trinitron screen, but a lot of manufacturers were using them. My previous experience with Sony has not been good, and once something is off the shelf they don't even want to talk about it any more. Either that, or repair prices are just shy of a new unit.


    If I can get the darn thing to talk again, I'll try it.
  • edited June 2010
    Hi

    I'm having a lot of trouble trying to connect my p1110 to my computer. I have windas installed, using xp pro 32 and i have brought this cable. I am connecting the monitor with the facing the celling and the others going down from there. My PCI serial card is connected correctly and all set up. Everything should be a go right? What's the issue? If i select a serial port my computer does not have the program gives the error message right away. So its finding the serial ports, because when I select the correct port it takes about 5 seconds for the error message to come up.
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited July 2010
    jkmetal wrote:
    Hi

    I'm having a lot of trouble trying to connect my p1110 to my computer. I have windas installed, using xp pro 32 and i have brought this cable. I am connecting the monitor with the facing the celling and the others going down from there. My PCI serial card is connected correctly and all set up. Everything should be a go right? What's the issue? If i select a serial port my computer does not have the program gives the error message right away. So its finding the serial ports, because when I select the correct port it takes about 5 seconds for the error message to come up.


    It took a long time to get mine to connect, and unfortunately the wires broke off the PCB inside the headshell! Luckily, the guy will send me another one whan I send mine back.

    I have resolved the issue in the meantime, however. I am a Dell field technician, and have a lot of colleges in my territory. I went to service a laptop, and there was another Dell 21" in a recycle bin. I asked the guy what was up with it, and he said it was sitting on the floor and the building flooded, so they brought it in and put it in the bin. I took it into his shop, we hooked up a monitor tester, and...it worked perfect! It's not a true flat screen like the other one, but it is beautiful nonetheless!

    That's the easy way. I do want to get my flat screen working since I was so close, but I need to get the other cable.

    Did you swap the red and yellow wires? Also, did you try jumpering pin 5 RTS to pin 6 CTS? It seems to me that when I did those two things it started communicating with the monitor. I think the rest of my troubles were caused by the broken wire(s).

    When I get the new cable I'll try again. I really like that flat screen!
  • edited July 2010
    Hello, what an awesome forum and thread!

    I have a few questions regarding a Dell/Sony P922. I bought it at a thrift store for $.25 and of course it has the bright screen problem.
    I was looking through the thread and I've decided the best bet would probably be the resistor swap. for which I have a few questions. 1) can someone please give me the ratting I should use for a single replacement as to avoid soldering in parallel as I'm not that confident at soldering!
    2) any tips on where to buy them in America would be great...

    Thank You
  • edited July 2010
    wahwah70 wrote:
    Hello, what an awesome forum and thread!

    I have a few questions regarding a Dell/Sony P922. I bought it at a thrift store for $.25 and of course it has the bright screen problem.
    I was looking through the thread and I've decided the best bet would probably be the resistor swap. for which I have a few questions. 1) can someone please give me the ratting I should use for a single replacement as to avoid soldering in parallel as I'm not that confident at soldering!
    2) any tips on where to buy them in America would be great...

    Thank You

    Hopefully this will help the next guy. I bought a 15 Mohms and clipped off the old resister leaving enough to soldered the 15 Mohms to the remaining ends(of the one I clipped off...) Worked like a charm. No more red lines and the black is actually black and not gray... Thanks to ever thought of this mod!!!:rockon:
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