Are you trying to overclock in bios or with the CoreCenter? If you are trying in bios, what are you setting the fsb speed to when trying to overclock? It sounds to me like you are trying too big a step and the motherboard then tries to boot but can't, then reverts back to stock speeds. As for why CoreCenter settings won't take, I have no idea since I don't have an MSI board presently.
I had heard the Zalman wasn't the best, but it's the best fry's had. I am impressed with it ofver the stock heatsink/fan. Its droped my temps 10 Deg. C. It was always hi 60's now just hi 50's. Also can someone tell me how to use prime for a dueal core. I've just been using s&m. Thanks
0
LeonardoWake up and smell the glaciersEagle River, AlaskaIcrontian
edited April 2006
With your setup, the 9500 should be all you need, even if you overclock heavily. If you have heat belching monsters like I do, then you need a little bit bigger beast.
Concerning Prime 95, one for instance for each core. I haven't tried it. I know that some of the guys that have usually mention the term "affinity". Do a word search here in the forums and you'll probably pull up the right thread.
Also can someone tell me how to use prime for a dueal core. I've just been using s&m. Thanks
There are some differant ways of doing this, but assuming you already got the prime program on your harddisk, then copy the Prime programfolder and place it in a differant location on the harddisk.
You then need to write a prime password in "Advanced" menu ( password is 9876 ) to activate more functions.
Then go to "Affinity" and uncheck "let program..." and set Affinity to "0" in the first primefolder and to "1" on the second copy of primefolder and start both prime programs when running dual core torture-test ( for cpu "in-place large FFT`s..)
D 805 cpu booted fine after biosupdate.
However, no surprise regarding OC capability. Even though ASUS specify "CPU voltage adjustable" on the website specification http://www.asus.com/products4.aspx?modelmenu=2&model=584&l1=3&l2=11&l3=206
ASUS C.P.R.(CPU Parameter Recall)
CPU voltage adjustable
SFS (Stepless Frequency Selection) from 133MHz up to 400MHz at 1MHz increment
Adjustable FSB/DDR ratio. Fixed AGP8X/PCI or PCI/PCIe frequencies.
there were none to find in bios ( no vcore or vdimm) and no OC software that followed either.
I was only able to run at 3.12Ghz at stock vcore.
Running prime at that speed, I could read about 0.15v fluctation and just to be sure that not the HEC 350w PSU 18amp/12v was the culprit, I invested in a Tagan 580w with 2x20amp or 35amp with combined 12v lines ( needed that anyway ).
The fluctation went down to some 0.10v, but these cheap combo-mobo´s does not have the best stability as we all now and did not affect the OC capability in either way.
So now I´ve got a working flexible combo mobo, but without possiblity to really squeeze the potenital from the D805 cpu.
Hi there! New to this forum, and I usally don´t use forums, but...
I am on a budget and got this ASUS P5VD1-X. I am a little bit mad because the VID´s arent adjustable - like the info says. But just now i stumbled upon this info on another forum:
how to volt mod asus p5vd1-x
I have figured out how to manually change vcore on the asus p5vd1-x. here is the quick and dirty without pictures:
1. locate the adp3181 chip between the cpu and ram slots on the edge of the board.
2. the top of the chip faces the cpu and has a circle on the top left corner (pin 1)
3. download http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...8ADP3181_a.pdf
4. go to page 7 to see a pinout. make note of vid4 - vid0
5. go to page 9 to see output voltage settings.
6. go into the asus bios, hardware monitor, and check current voltage. mine was 1.3, but it read a little low (1.292 or so). i double checked the VID settings on each pin using a voltmeter.
7. all you need to do now is compare your current settings to you desired settings. i had 1.3v, which corresponded to v4,v3,v2,v1,v0 --> 1,0,1,1,0 ,respectively. i want 1.4v which corresponded to v4,v3,v2,v1 --> 1,0,0,1,0 so i connected v3 to v2 (alternately, i connected pin 2 [v3] to pin 3 [v2].)
8. you will need to use a conductive pin or the defrost repair kit as a pencil line gives too much resistance and does not change the settings. alternatively, you could sauder a wire to make it permanent, but i was trying not to void my warranty.
**** this should be modifiable in bios as it is simply a digital setting/input, however, asus has chosen not to include this so far. if anyone has any experience in ami bios hacking/modifying, i have experience in assembly language programming. i would prefer to make a bios that allowed changing of the settings. thanks!****
I just got an Asus P5VD1-X and a Pentium D-805. I used to have an Athlon 2500+ and a KT600 chipset Epox Mobo. Now, even without overclocking my new CPU must beat the old one in any case. But there seems to be a problem and somehow new CPU does not perform well. It gets near half the score from CPU tests in 3d mark 2005 which does not make any sense. Since you're using the same Mobo can you please tell me what are the right bios CPU settings? I am using Bios ver. 503.
If the problem is not bios settings then can it be possible that my PSU can not supply enough power? I have a 550W Flower PSU. These PSU's are really cheap and I dont think they are truly 550W. It was more than enough for my Athlon 2500+ cpu but now I'm not so sure. Can anybody also please recommend me a PSU for my setup?
Leonardo,
After many delays I now have my D820 up and running on the ASUS P5P800SE, all mosfets and northbridge sinked with pure copper, CPU running under a Sythe Ninja with a 120mm coolermaster blue led silent fan.
I started overclocking by going straight to 3.5GHz on a 250MHz fsb.
2 gigs of Muskin XP @ 3.4.4.8
I set the voltage in the BIOS at 1.3 since I had a few random crashes.
Funny thing is ASUS Probe shows VCore voltage at 1.272 (it has even shown a down blip of <1.2 !) The voltage is pretty stable but I do get the odd blip up or down on VCore and +12.
I have an ENERMAX EG565-VE PSU.
My PC Probe temps are low 30's idle, just under 60 full load in a warm room.
My question to you:
Is ASUS PC Probe reliable?
I used to use MBM5 and loved it since it logged a file that I could examine in case of a crash or problem. MBM5 doesn't work on the P5P800SE.
Recomendations?
I still get the odd sudden total crash (not blue screen or hang) and fear it might be voltage related.
0
LeonardoWake up and smell the glaciersEagle River, AlaskaIcrontian
edited June 2006
Good work Paradox. Excellent selection for heatsink, and good of you to take care of the mosfets. For temps, voltage, and CPU monitoring:
Asus Probe (I see you've already got it)
SpeedFan
CPUz
Just experiment with them and use the one or combination of them you find best suits your needs.
Thanks,
I use CPUz and will look into SpeedFan...
but as I said, with a BIOS VCore setting of 1.3, ASUS Probe shows a usual reading of 1.264-1.272. That looks pretty good except that Probe also show the occasional drop down to 1.152 1.16. Is that something to worry about?
I know you aren't running a P5P800SE (not in sig) but with an overclocked CPU that dropdown looks scary to me.
What I DON'T see is a VCore of 1.3. The highest reading I got was 1.28.
Do I trust the BIOS settings or the Probe readout?
One interseting detail is that I just ran a program that got the CPU to full load for a steady 10 min or so. Seems like the VCore drooped at that precice moment and for the duration.
Instead of the 1.264-1.272 the voltages fluctuated between 1.168 and 1.176 with small spikes to 1.2-1.264 ...as read by ASUS Probe.
0
LeonardoWake up and smell the glaciersEagle River, AlaskaIcrontian
edited June 2006
BIOS vCore settings are usually higher than the actually voltage supplied to the CPU. Also, overclocking the CPU will cause the input-output difference to increase. This is called "v-droop" or "vdroop." The better the motherboard, the less droop there usually is. The droop you are describing is a bit high. However, if you are able to whatever you wish with your computer without instability and without excessive heat, I wouldn't worry about it.
I've changed the PSU to a 500watt Enermax Liberty and system now works fine at stock speeds and beats the old system easly. I also installed a Zalman CNPS9500 fan to CPU.
Then I started to do overclocking. System looks stable untill I reach 158 FSB over that amount some instability starts to take place. Windows does not boot and crashes to a blue screen etc.
Now what I want to learn is the reason. Is it because I can't adjust the Vcore or is it a limitation of my DDR-400 rams? Heating is not an issue because CPU is pretty cool with that new Zalman.
What do you guys think the possible maximum FSB I can reach with DDR-400 rams? (Supertalent -heatsinked- 1GB*2) Help me out will you I'm not so used to overclocking. (Except for my very very old Celeron 300A)
Btw did anyone managed to change the vcore in P5VD1-X manually by the method given above?
0
LeonardoWake up and smell the glaciersEagle River, AlaskaIcrontian
edited June 2006
Your DRAM is not holding you back. It should be good for it's minimum rated speed of 200 (400DDR). Do you have a "divider" set in the BIOS to alter the speed ratio CPU:DRAM? Your CPU at default is 20 multiplier X 133FSB, total 2.66GHz. At FSB 158 your system is overclocked to 3160, for a total overclock of 500MHz. There is probably much more headroom with that CPU.
So, your motherboard has no BIOS settings to adjust vCore or DRAM voltage? If you can't boost those two voltages, FSB 158 may be your limit.
That's a good CPU heatsink, the 9500. I had one of them. It's good engineering as well as a work of art. BTW, what is your CPU temperature under full load?
It's pretty cool but I just installed it and dont know what will that be if I work on full load with it like 10 hours. When idle it's like 32c.
So what you're saying is if I can manage to adjust the v-core I may get higher CPU speeds and Rams wont stop me? Do I need to change the ram speed or should I leave them as Auto setting Or should I fix it to a certain latency time?
What I dont understand is if the cpu can not draw enough power with higher FSB how can computer boot but windows wont? Is it because of CPU load is low on system boot but high on windows boot?
Is it possible (it is a Via chipset) that the bus is not locked? I was reading on the Asus forums that somebody couldn't get past 160fsb, until they pulled their pci-e card and went to an agp vid card, then got 197fsb.
I use an AGP card (7800GS). MOBO allows up to 400 FSB. My system doesn't work well over 157 and windows opens to a blue screen and resets over 158.
Now what I'm asking is when system reboots fine but windows don't is this a problem of non adjustable v-core value?
Btw when I go upper FSB speeds like 166 system doesn't boot at all.
I also have two more questions I locked AGP values to 33/66 does it put any barriers to my overclock capacity?
Second is should I leave ram settings as Auto (by SPD) or should I fix them to a certain level my self?
Geez there are so many unknowns in this overclock stuff.
My D820 is having problems too.
@ < 230 fsb seems stable on 1.375 volts(bios). This is disapointing me because I can run 250fsb but will get the BSOD....sometimes.
My feeling is that the ASUS P5P800SE is of poor quality in particular where power delivery is concerned. I get a fair bit of droop and the mosfets get incredibly hot even though I sinked them with solid copper(burned my finger on one). I really believe my BSOD's are due to poor power delivery and heat, though the Ninja on the CPU is doing the job where that is concerned.
Interestingly, my former board was an ABIT AI7 (great board) with a 2.4C-800 Northwood CPU that would run all day @ 3.2MHz-267fsb. When I put the Scythe Ninja on that it barely got warm ..BUT...my PWM temps (as read by MBM5) were mid 50's under full load!
I swapped out the Ninja for the D820 and put a Zalman 7000b-CU on the Northwood. Lo and behold my CPU temps were a bit higher ...BUT... the PWM temps were WAY down, barely breaking mid 40's under full load. The circular fan rotation of the Zalman really helps cool the power circuits surrounding the CPU.
I am now considering finding another heatsink for the D820 since, in my view, the power circuits are way too hot on the P5P800SE.
I'm kind of pissed since I could have avoided all this by staying away from the Smithfield flamethrower!
I use an AGP card (7800GS). MOBO allows up to 400 FSB. My system doesn't work well over 157 and windows opens to a blue screen and resets over 158.
Now what I'm asking is when system reboots fine but windows don't is this a problem of non adjustable v-core value?
Btw when I go upper FSB speeds like 166 system doesn't boot at all.
I also have two more questions I locked AGP values to 33/66 does it put any barriers to my overclock capacity?
Second is should I leave ram settings as Auto (by SPD) or should I fix them to a certain level my self?
Geez there are so many unknowns in this overclock stuff.
Sorry, I just saw the 7800 part and was thinking PCI-e.
When you lock the AGP values, all should be good.
You could try to change the ram values yourself. I don't know how the bios is set up on your machine or how it would re-act. (ie if the bios sets a divider on the ram).
When your system reboots (or doesn't boot) it "could" be power,( not enough or bad regulation).
Yes there are a lot of unknowns when overclocking, but half the fun is finding the answers.
Personally I've got an MSI board, rock solid, clocked an 820d well, just doesn't like my 805d. runs fine stock, will crash/reboot at 140fsb.
I"ve also got a p5p800se, currently running @170fsb. I know it has more headroom, but after cooking 1 board I don't have the guts to boost the voltage above stock. (the power regulation on this board does not like dual cores)
I awapped out the Ninja for the D820 and put a Zalman 7000b-CU on the Northwood. Lo and behold my CPU temps were a bit higher ...BUT... the PWM temps were WAY down, barely breaking mid 40's under full load. The circular fan rotation of the Zalman really helps cool the power circuits surrounding the CPU.
I am now considering finding another heatsink for the D820 since, in my view, the power circuits are way too hot on the P5P800SE.
I'm kind of pissed since I could have avoided all this by staying away from the Smithfield flamethrower!
The fan orientation is one of the main reasons why I chose the Big Typhoon, the fan blowing down washes over the mosfets also. The fets by the AGP slot were still getting very hot. I rigged an 80mm fan to blow over them to try to keep them cool.
When I decide to pull the rig apart again, I think I'll be cutting an old fan into the mobo tray to try to cool the backside of the mobo. (a thin fan off an old AXP oem heatsink)
I knew the Smithfield was a flamethrower, I didn't realize the p5p circuitry couldn't take the abuse.
Donut,
Are you using / did you use the Big Typhoon with your D820 or D805?
If so, how would you rate it's effectiveness as far as cooling a flamethrower?
I too was considering adding a rear fan but I run open-case, so ambient temps are relatively low.
I may try to build a custom case just to cool this beeeatch (sorry if I offend) but I'm not there yet.
Q: What MSI board did you clock your D820 with and how high a fsb did you get? I was aiming for 250 at the least (3.5GHz), since at that point my ram is running stock at 3.4.3.8.
I bought the P5P800SE so I could recycle my 2Gb of memory and AGP card. My only expenditures were the D820 CPU off Ebay and mobo (on sale).
I've got the BT on an 805d, effectiveness pretty good. On my p5p800se @170 fsb it runs 55c under full load folding. My MSI board is a 945p NeoF. I've got an 805 @ stock speeds in that one. ( the stock cooler also runs 52c under load).
My case is UGLY! It's an old ATX, the side hole lined up with the BT. I removed the PSU and used a hot glue gun to attach it to the top of the case. A 120mm
exhaust fan was fitted where the PSU used to sit.
I personally don't have an 820D, I bought my MSI board off a forum member who had an OC'D 820 in it.
Is it better then Asus P5P800-SE , knowing the problems with the voltage... and all...
I am trying to build me a PC from old parts. I bought Pentium D 805 but I have read this post and from what I understand asus P5P800-SE isn't the right board for overclocking. I am not trying to reach 3.7GHz or more, I would like to be stabe at 3.4GHz or little more... :smiles:
PSU: LC Power 550W LC-6550G VER. 2.0
MEM: 2x512MB Corsair DDR RAM PC3200/400MHz CL2.5 in a few months will buy another pair
Grafik card: ATI 9200 128MB AGP
Cooling: Thermaltake CL-P0114D BIG TYPHOONE
Do you have any other suggsetions for the mainboard? It only have to be DDR1 and AGP combination, budget problems...
I do a lot of multitasking, none of playing games, new age 3d games
Many thx,
Max
0
LeonardoWake up and smell the glaciersEagle River, AlaskaIcrontian
edited June 2006
Without having read any reviews on that board, my opinion is that it would probably work well but don't think about it if you put any priority on overclocking with it. The 865 chipset will limit you, just as it does with the Asus 865-based boards. If your desire is to AGP video and DDR RAM then sure, why not. If you want to overclock higher, you really need to go with an 945P chipset board, at a minimum.
You should do an Internet search for reviews on that Gigabyte board. Wish I could advise you more.
I wrote to ASUS about V-Core adjustibility of P5VD1-X and they replied there is no way to fix that. Now I guess what we need to do is to wait for somebody to write a hacked Bios for the board and then adjust the V4-V0 pins properly. If that does not happen I guess we must be happy with 500Mhz overclock we got.
Donut,
Thanks for the reply.
I found Leonardo's cooler review and am convinced I need the Big Typhoon (in fact if I didn't want to overclock this firebreathing D820 I would settle for the Zalman 7700CU).
My Scythe Ninja is fantastic at cooling the CPU but lousy at cooling my copper sinked mosfets....especially that I run open case (ghetto style!).
The air UNDER the Ninja just sits there and unless I build a radically custom case from scratch, I can't get enough air flow to cool the mosfets enough.
For the last few days it's been cool up here in Ottawa Canada. Ambient temperature at this moment is 16c and cooler at night. My comp is right next to an open window. As a result the PWM temps are several degrees lower (48c) than a few days ago when ambiant temps were close to 30c and PWM (as read by speedfan) were 52c+. It was then that I was getting crashes.
As I stated in a previous post, the Zalman 7000bCU dropped the PWM temps in my old comp by 15-20c after I took off my Ninja, (though the CPU ran a bit warmer) because of the air circulating effect of the fan rotation directly to the area of the mosfets. That system was in the same open AOpen full tower.
My last hope now is that the Big Typhoon will give me that cooling effect of the mosfets that surround the CPU socket area.
Hi
Need some help, just rebuilt my pc using a D805 on a ASUS P5ND2-SLI motherboard, when i boot the pc it starts ok, when i try to load up windows xp it shuts down just as it gets to the point when it asks me to hit enter to start the full load up of windows, this kept happening every time even with a new and clean hard drive.
I went in to the bios on the mainboard to see if every thing was running ok and found the processor was running at 83 c and the fan was running at 2230 rpm, i have instaled a 500w psu and 1G or DDR2 ram.
Comments
Are you trying to overclock in bios or with the CoreCenter? If you are trying in bios, what are you setting the fsb speed to when trying to overclock? It sounds to me like you are trying too big a step and the motherboard then tries to boot but can't, then reverts back to stock speeds. As for why CoreCenter settings won't take, I have no idea since I don't have an MSI board presently.
I post a thread here: http://www.short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45005
Concerning Prime 95, one for instance for each core. I haven't tried it. I know that some of the guys that have usually mention the term "affinity". Do a word search here in the forums and you'll probably pull up the right thread.
That's an interesting way of stress "testing".
There are some differant ways of doing this, but assuming you already got the prime program on your harddisk, then copy the Prime programfolder and place it in a differant location on the harddisk.
You then need to write a prime password in "Advanced" menu ( password is 9876 ) to activate more functions.
Then go to "Affinity" and uncheck "let program..." and set Affinity to "0" in the first primefolder and to "1" on the second copy of primefolder and start both prime programs when running dual core torture-test ( for cpu "in-place large FFT`s..)
Hi there! New to this forum, and I usally don´t use forums, but...
I am on a budget and got this ASUS P5VD1-X. I am a little bit mad because the VID´s arent adjustable - like the info says. But just now i stumbled upon this info on another forum:
<http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/87850-how-volt-mod-asus-p5vd1-x.html
how to volt mod asus p5vd1-x
I have figured out how to manually change vcore on the asus p5vd1-x. here is the quick and dirty without pictures:
1. locate the adp3181 chip between the cpu and ram slots on the edge of the board.
2. the top of the chip faces the cpu and has a circle on the top left corner (pin 1)
3. download http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...8ADP3181_a.pdf
4. go to page 7 to see a pinout. make note of vid4 - vid0
5. go to page 9 to see output voltage settings.
6. go into the asus bios, hardware monitor, and check current voltage. mine was 1.3, but it read a little low (1.292 or so). i double checked the VID settings on each pin using a voltmeter.
7. all you need to do now is compare your current settings to you desired settings. i had 1.3v, which corresponded to v4,v3,v2,v1,v0 --> 1,0,1,1,0 ,respectively. i want 1.4v which corresponded to v4,v3,v2,v1 --> 1,0,0,1,0 so i connected v3 to v2 (alternately, i connected pin 2 [v3] to pin 3 [v2].)
8. you will need to use a conductive pin or the defrost repair kit as a pencil line gives too much resistance and does not change the settings. alternatively, you could sauder a wire to make it permanent, but i was trying not to void my warranty.
**** this should be modifiable in bios as it is simply a digital setting/input, however, asus has chosen not to include this so far. if anyone has any experience in ami bios hacking/modifying, i have experience in assembly language programming. i would prefer to make a bios that allowed changing of the settings. thanks!****
I havent tried this yet but I will soon!
/Henkebus
I just got an Asus P5VD1-X and a Pentium D-805. I used to have an Athlon 2500+ and a KT600 chipset Epox Mobo. Now, even without overclocking my new CPU must beat the old one in any case. But there seems to be a problem and somehow new CPU does not perform well. It gets near half the score from CPU tests in 3d mark 2005 which does not make any sense. Since you're using the same Mobo can you please tell me what are the right bios CPU settings? I am using Bios ver. 503.
If the problem is not bios settings then can it be possible that my PSU can not supply enough power? I have a 550W Flower PSU. These PSU's are really cheap and I dont think they are truly 550W. It was more than enough for my Athlon 2500+ cpu but now I'm not so sure. Can anybody also please recommend me a PSU for my setup?
Cheers.
After many delays I now have my D820 up and running on the ASUS P5P800SE, all mosfets and northbridge sinked with pure copper, CPU running under a Sythe Ninja with a 120mm coolermaster blue led silent fan.
I started overclocking by going straight to 3.5GHz on a 250MHz fsb.
2 gigs of Muskin XP @ 3.4.4.8
I set the voltage in the BIOS at 1.3 since I had a few random crashes.
Funny thing is ASUS Probe shows VCore voltage at 1.272 (it has even shown a down blip of <1.2 !) The voltage is pretty stable but I do get the odd blip up or down on VCore and +12.
I have an ENERMAX EG565-VE PSU.
My PC Probe temps are low 30's idle, just under 60 full load in a warm room.
My question to you:
Is ASUS PC Probe reliable?
I used to use MBM5 and loved it since it logged a file that I could examine in case of a crash or problem. MBM5 doesn't work on the P5P800SE.
Recomendations?
I still get the odd sudden total crash (not blue screen or hang) and fear it might be voltage related.
Asus Probe (I see you've already got it)
SpeedFan
CPUz
Just experiment with them and use the one or combination of them you find best suits your needs.
I use CPUz and will look into SpeedFan...
but as I said, with a BIOS VCore setting of 1.3, ASUS Probe shows a usual reading of 1.264-1.272. That looks pretty good except that Probe also show the occasional drop down to 1.152 1.16. Is that something to worry about?
I know you aren't running a P5P800SE (not in sig) but with an overclocked CPU that dropdown looks scary to me.
What I DON'T see is a VCore of 1.3. The highest reading I got was 1.28.
Do I trust the BIOS settings or the Probe readout?
One interseting detail is that I just ran a program that got the CPU to full load for a steady 10 min or so. Seems like the VCore drooped at that precice moment and for the duration.
Instead of the 1.264-1.272 the voltages fluctuated between 1.168 and 1.176 with small spikes to 1.2-1.264 ...as read by ASUS Probe.
Then I started to do overclocking. System looks stable untill I reach 158 FSB over that amount some instability starts to take place. Windows does not boot and crashes to a blue screen etc.
Now what I want to learn is the reason. Is it because I can't adjust the Vcore or is it a limitation of my DDR-400 rams? Heating is not an issue because CPU is pretty cool with that new Zalman.
What do you guys think the possible maximum FSB I can reach with DDR-400 rams? (Supertalent -heatsinked- 1GB*2) Help me out will you I'm not so used to overclocking. (Except for my very very old Celeron 300A)
Btw did anyone managed to change the vcore in P5VD1-X manually by the method given above?
So, your motherboard has no BIOS settings to adjust vCore or DRAM voltage? If you can't boost those two voltages, FSB 158 may be your limit.
That's a good CPU heatsink, the 9500. I had one of them. It's good engineering as well as a work of art. BTW, what is your CPU temperature under full load?
So what you're saying is if I can manage to adjust the v-core I may get higher CPU speeds and Rams wont stop me? Do I need to change the ram speed or should I leave them as Auto setting Or should I fix it to a certain latency time?
What I dont understand is if the cpu can not draw enough power with higher FSB how can computer boot but windows wont? Is it because of CPU load is low on system boot but high on windows boot?
Now what I'm asking is when system reboots fine but windows don't is this a problem of non adjustable v-core value?
Btw when I go upper FSB speeds like 166 system doesn't boot at all.
I also have two more questions I locked AGP values to 33/66 does it put any barriers to my overclock capacity?
Second is should I leave ram settings as Auto (by SPD) or should I fix them to a certain level my self?
Geez there are so many unknowns in this overclock stuff.
@ < 230 fsb seems stable on 1.375 volts(bios). This is disapointing me because I can run 250fsb but will get the BSOD....sometimes.
My feeling is that the ASUS P5P800SE is of poor quality in particular where power delivery is concerned. I get a fair bit of droop and the mosfets get incredibly hot even though I sinked them with solid copper(burned my finger on one). I really believe my BSOD's are due to poor power delivery and heat, though the Ninja on the CPU is doing the job where that is concerned.
Interestingly, my former board was an ABIT AI7 (great board) with a 2.4C-800 Northwood CPU that would run all day @ 3.2MHz-267fsb. When I put the Scythe Ninja on that it barely got warm ..BUT...my PWM temps (as read by MBM5) were mid 50's under full load!
I swapped out the Ninja for the D820 and put a Zalman 7000b-CU on the Northwood. Lo and behold my CPU temps were a bit higher ...BUT... the PWM temps were WAY down, barely breaking mid 40's under full load. The circular fan rotation of the Zalman really helps cool the power circuits surrounding the CPU.
I am now considering finding another heatsink for the D820 since, in my view, the power circuits are way too hot on the P5P800SE.
I'm kind of pissed since I could have avoided all this by staying away from the Smithfield flamethrower!
When you lock the AGP values, all should be good.
You could try to change the ram values yourself. I don't know how the bios is set up on your machine or how it would re-act. (ie if the bios sets a divider on the ram).
When your system reboots (or doesn't boot) it "could" be power,( not enough or bad regulation).
Yes there are a lot of unknowns when overclocking, but half the fun is finding the answers.
Personally I've got an MSI board, rock solid, clocked an 820d well, just doesn't like my 805d. runs fine stock, will crash/reboot at 140fsb.
I"ve also got a p5p800se, currently running @170fsb. I know it has more headroom, but after cooking 1 board I don't have the guts to boost the voltage above stock. (the power regulation on this board does not like dual cores)
When I decide to pull the rig apart again, I think I'll be cutting an old fan into the mobo tray to try to cool the backside of the mobo. (a thin fan off an old AXP oem heatsink)
I knew the Smithfield was a flamethrower, I didn't realize the p5p circuitry couldn't take the abuse.
Are you using / did you use the Big Typhoon with your D820 or D805?
If so, how would you rate it's effectiveness as far as cooling a flamethrower?
I too was considering adding a rear fan but I run open-case, so ambient temps are relatively low.
I may try to build a custom case just to cool this beeeatch (sorry if I offend) but I'm not there yet.
Q: What MSI board did you clock your D820 with and how high a fsb did you get? I was aiming for 250 at the least (3.5GHz), since at that point my ram is running stock at 3.4.3.8.
I bought the P5P800SE so I could recycle my 2Gb of memory and AGP card. My only expenditures were the D820 CPU off Ebay and mobo (on sale).
My case is UGLY! It's an old ATX, the side hole lined up with the BT. I removed the PSU and used a hot glue gun to attach it to the top of the case. A 120mm
exhaust fan was fitted where the PSU used to sit.
I personally don't have an 820D, I bought my MSI board off a forum member who had an OC'D 820 in it.
If you take a look, Leonardo has an extensive thread about OCing the 820d
http://short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40521
Leonardo also did a quick write-up comparing the Big Typhoon, the Ninja and a Zalman someplace, I just can't find it right now.
I have a question..... plz...
What do you think about this mainboard: GA-8IPE775-G (Rev 1.2)
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Motherboard/Products_Spec.aspx?ClassValue=Motherboard&ProductID=2174&ProductName=GA-8IPE775-G
Is it better then Asus P5P800-SE , knowing the problems with the voltage... and all...
I am trying to build me a PC from old parts. I bought Pentium D 805 but I have read this post and from what I understand asus P5P800-SE isn't the right board for overclocking. I am not trying to reach 3.7GHz or more, I would like to be stabe at 3.4GHz or little more... :smiles:
PSU: LC Power 550W LC-6550G VER. 2.0
MEM: 2x512MB Corsair DDR RAM PC3200/400MHz CL2.5 in a few months will buy another pair
Grafik card: ATI 9200 128MB AGP
Cooling: Thermaltake CL-P0114D BIG TYPHOONE
Do you have any other suggsetions for the mainboard? It only have to be DDR1 and AGP combination, budget problems...
I do a lot of multitasking, none of playing games, new age 3d games
Many thx,
Max
You should do an Internet search for reviews on that Gigabyte board. Wish I could advise you more.
Thanks for the reply.
I found Leonardo's cooler review and am convinced I need the Big Typhoon (in fact if I didn't want to overclock this firebreathing D820 I would settle for the Zalman 7700CU).
My Scythe Ninja is fantastic at cooling the CPU but lousy at cooling my copper sinked mosfets....especially that I run open case (ghetto style!).
The air UNDER the Ninja just sits there and unless I build a radically custom case from scratch, I can't get enough air flow to cool the mosfets enough.
For the last few days it's been cool up here in Ottawa Canada. Ambient temperature at this moment is 16c and cooler at night. My comp is right next to an open window. As a result the PWM temps are several degrees lower (48c) than a few days ago when ambiant temps were close to 30c and PWM (as read by speedfan) were 52c+. It was then that I was getting crashes.
As I stated in a previous post, the Zalman 7000bCU dropped the PWM temps in my old comp by 15-20c after I took off my Ninja, (though the CPU ran a bit warmer) because of the air circulating effect of the fan rotation directly to the area of the mosfets. That system was in the same open AOpen full tower.
My last hope now is that the Big Typhoon will give me that cooling effect of the mosfets that surround the CPU socket area.
Need some help, just rebuilt my pc using a D805 on a ASUS P5ND2-SLI motherboard, when i boot the pc it starts ok, when i try to load up windows xp it shuts down just as it gets to the point when it asks me to hit enter to start the full load up of windows, this kept happening every time even with a new and clean hard drive.
I went in to the bios on the mainboard to see if every thing was running ok and found the processor was running at 83 c and the fan was running at 2230 rpm, i have instaled a 500w psu and 1G or DDR2 ram.
Can any body help