I don't want to speak for Thrax, but IMHO the Jaragar watches offer good value for the money. For $30, it's either this or a Timex from Wal Mart. The Timex will probably last longer and will be more accurate, but it doesn't have the style or the interesting movement.
It's a crapshoot as to the quality of these things. The accuracy of the movement varies, as does the fit and finish of the watch. Some are very good. Many are hit-and-miss. But Jaragar and Parnis seem to have better odds at getting a decent one.
I just cant bring myself to buy most of these Chinese watches. So many of the designs are knock offs homages to better-known classic designs from the fancy brands; I don't want to support fakes. I'd rather support long-established brands with in-house movements, or brands like G. Gerlatch, TWCO, or Strela who build on quality movements using their own designed cases, faces, and bands.
When it comes to cheap watches, there are several companies still making their own watches with in-house movements. Vostok (Russia), HMT (India), Sea-Gull (China), and Orient (Japan) come to mind. You can get a Vostok or HMT for the cost of two of the Chinese eBay specials.
The brand blacklist is not definitive, but it is a good list of potential and certain landmines to avoid when a beginner is buying their first mechanical watch. I took a video of my first Jaragar, which explains much of why I like it.
I think with Jaragar, AK Homme or Kronen & Söhne, you have to set your expectations to the right level. This is a $30 watch that could run the spectrum from great to broken right out of the box, often with no recourse to get it replaced. The cautious should always buy with PayPal, so you have their buyer's protection on your side, so at least you could get your cash back if you get screwed.
This one is not from the same buyer as my last watch, but the movement appears to be of a similar quality, materially speaking. Just by looking at the visual quality of the metal, you can begin to gauge what the quality might be like. Cheap-ass watches will have a very dull/burred/scratched/rough appearance (example), typical of crap metal and shit machining. Mid-range watches will have dull metal (example), but it generally won't look scratched or fibrous; it'll appear as though it's just unpolished. Going up from there, the quality of the movement starts becoming polished/brushed to a mirror shine (example), or even decorated with engravings (example).
Now, this won't tell you how well the gears fit together, how well the watch has been regulated (adjusted to keep accurate time), how good the jewel bearings are, etc. But it is indicative of the quality you can expect, all things being equal.
I know that I could get a lemon, but I'm 2:2 on my cheap Chinese mechanicals, and it's fun to gamble on something that looks pretty and could be very functional.
//EDIT: Just saw Pete's post, as it didn't appear when I replied with my own, and I didn't check back to the thread.
He's right, too. I'm tooling around with the cheapo Chinese watches because they're a lot more fun to look at than a Timex, Casio or any other department store brand. At worst, I get my money back. At best, I own a good watch for $30.
It's important to me to have a diverse collection, and I will soon be offsetting my cheapos with some better models. I already have an Orient, and I'm looking for a good price on several SeaGulls (M171S, M182sk, etc.), a Poljot 3101.1, and so on. If you're truly interested in watches, you should balance the average with the good.
I always hold buy breath when I need a new battery for my watch. It has scratches, the dial is yellowed but I'm still wearing it. The watch is a 1971 Bulova Accutron with a twin coil tuning fork. Vibrating at 360 times per second, it has a sweep second hand, and hums as it runs. I got it as a gift and it was purchased at C. N. Hetzner Jewelers in Peru, IN. The cost at the time was discounted to $150 since my then father-in-law was a watch maker there. I was told today that he see less and less of these every year because the repair if the tuning fork goes out is around $300. It's still my favorite watch. Not bad for a watch that is 41 years old.
MZI Corinth ($100, good Hangzhou movement but unknown QC)
Parnis marina militare skeleton ($90, good movement, above average quality, known good customer service, 44mm case is large)
Rotary GS02518 (Multiple vendors, prices all over the map, excellent quality control)
Then several Stuhrling watches.
Stuhrling, Adee Kaye and Akribos all present themselves as "luxury" brands with inflated MSRPs that don't in any way match the material or personnel cost. At the very least, however, they offer a warranty with reasonable customer service and decent quality control on the movements.
Sea-Gull & Swatch are by far the best choice, with premium movements built in-house, backed by excellent quality control. Armitron would probably be your second bet, but some (incl. me) don't like the diver/military case.
If you're set on a Stuhrling, here's what you need to know:
1) Stuhrling is a dishonest company. They're owned by a Las Vegas couple with head office in Miami, and everything is made in China. Despite this, they've frequently claimed Swiss origins, Swiss components, Swiss manufacturing, Swiss this-that-or-other to piggyback on the reputation of Swiss watchmaking.
2) Quality control has been an issue for Stuhrling in the past. Large batches of watches emerged from the box with broken geartrains, dislodged hands or unable to keep anything remotely resembling accurate time. More recent reports have indicated that this has improved, but it's still a skeleton (haHA) in the closet.
3) You will at least get a warranty and the right to return the product in the event of a dud if you buy from Amazon.
4) Customer service for Stuhrling is historically mediocre, but again, this has been reported to be improved as of late.
If you are comfortable with all of the above, then I can recommend Stuhrling.
@dodge_ram401 Love the Bulova. The tuning fork system in those is so cool. My barber has one and I've always found it to be intriguing. Cool!
@Basil Nice Seiko! That's a great purchase. Well done sir.
I received in the mail my Bergeon 6767-F spring bar fork tool today and used it to swap bands on my Orient. Totally worth the $25. If you plan on changing bands on your dress watches, this is THE TOOL to have for spring bars and bracelet pins. Highly recommended.
My Seiko watch arrived the other day, I love it, it fits great and it looks amazing! (Apologize for the glare, my phone camera is crap and I had to use a desk lamp for it to even show up properly)
TeramonaConsulting Tea Specialist Best Coast! Icrontian
Also, holy crap... that's a painting. 0_0
Also, also, I got one of my pocket watches working. It was just the battery. You will now hear me call out "all aboard" every time we're trying to rally the troops for dinner or whatnot at the next few IC events I attend.
Back to watches: http://www.techbargains.com/news_displayItem.cfm/322607 Ashford has the Bulova Men's 'Strap' Stainless Steel Automatic Self-Winding Watch for $138.00 Free Shipping after Coupon Code: "TECHSTRAP138" (Exp 11/9). Tax in NY. Features a silver-tone stainless steel case, croc-embossed leather strap with adjustable buckle closure, three-hand analog display with automatic movement, and water resistance up to 100m
Comments
It's a crapshoot as to the quality of these things. The accuracy of the movement varies, as does the fit and finish of the watch. Some are very good. Many are hit-and-miss. But Jaragar and Parnis seem to have better odds at getting a decent one.
I just cant bring myself to buy most of these Chinese watches. So many of the designs are knock offs homages to better-known classic designs from the fancy brands; I don't want to support fakes. I'd rather support long-established brands with in-house movements, or brands like G. Gerlatch, TWCO, or Strela who build on quality movements using their own designed cases, faces, and bands.
When it comes to cheap watches, there are several companies still making their own watches with in-house movements. Vostok (Russia), HMT (India), Sea-Gull (China), and Orient (Japan) come to mind. You can get a Vostok or HMT for the cost of two of the Chinese eBay specials.
I think with Jaragar, AK Homme or Kronen & Söhne, you have to set your expectations to the right level. This is a $30 watch that could run the spectrum from great to broken right out of the box, often with no recourse to get it replaced. The cautious should always buy with PayPal, so you have their buyer's protection on your side, so at least you could get your cash back if you get screwed.
This one is not from the same buyer as my last watch, but the movement appears to be of a similar quality, materially speaking. Just by looking at the visual quality of the metal, you can begin to gauge what the quality might be like. Cheap-ass watches will have a very dull/burred/scratched/rough appearance (example), typical of crap metal and shit machining. Mid-range watches will have dull metal (example), but it generally won't look scratched or fibrous; it'll appear as though it's just unpolished. Going up from there, the quality of the movement starts becoming polished/brushed to a mirror shine (example), or even decorated with engravings (example).
Now, this won't tell you how well the gears fit together, how well the watch has been regulated (adjusted to keep accurate time), how good the jewel bearings are, etc. But it is indicative of the quality you can expect, all things being equal.
I know that I could get a lemon, but I'm 2:2 on my cheap Chinese mechanicals, and it's fun to gamble on something that looks pretty and could be very functional.
//EDIT: Just saw Pete's post, as it didn't appear when I replied with my own, and I didn't check back to the thread.
He's right, too. I'm tooling around with the cheapo Chinese watches because they're a lot more fun to look at than a Timex, Casio or any other department store brand. At worst, I get my money back. At best, I own a good watch for $30.
It's important to me to have a diverse collection, and I will soon be offsetting my cheapos with some better models. I already have an Orient, and I'm looking for a good price on several SeaGulls (M171S, M182sk, etc.), a Poljot 3101.1, and so on. If you're truly interested in watches, you should balance the average with the good.
Armitron 20-4406SVSV ($90 from WalMart, known watchmaker with a good warranty)
Swatch Body & Soul ($136, maybe on sale, very good Swiss ETA movement from the largest watch conglomerate on the planet, plus a warranty)
Akribos XXIV DaVinci ($149 new, <$100 on sale, above average)
Adee Kaye AK4005 ($139 new, <$100 on sale, above average)
MZI Corinth ($100, good Hangzhou movement but unknown QC)
Parnis marina militare skeleton ($90, good movement, above average quality, known good customer service, 44mm case is large)
Rotary GS02518 (Multiple vendors, prices all over the map, excellent quality control)
Then several Stuhrling watches.
Stuhrling, Adee Kaye and Akribos all present themselves as "luxury" brands with inflated MSRPs that don't in any way match the material or personnel cost. At the very least, however, they offer a warranty with reasonable customer service and decent quality control on the movements.
Sea-Gull & Swatch are by far the best choice, with premium movements built in-house, backed by excellent quality control. Armitron would probably be your second bet, but some (incl. me) don't like the diver/military case.
The rest will be hit-or-miss, caveat emptor.
1) Stuhrling is a dishonest company. They're owned by a Las Vegas couple with head office in Miami, and everything is made in China. Despite this, they've frequently claimed Swiss origins, Swiss components, Swiss manufacturing, Swiss this-that-or-other to piggyback on the reputation of Swiss watchmaking.
2) Quality control has been an issue for Stuhrling in the past. Large batches of watches emerged from the box with broken geartrains, dislodged hands or unable to keep anything remotely resembling accurate time. More recent reports have indicated that this has improved, but it's still a skeleton (haHA) in the closet.
3) You will at least get a warranty and the right to return the product in the event of a dud if you buy from Amazon.
4) Customer service for Stuhrling is historically mediocre, but again, this has been reported to be improved as of late.
If you are comfortable with all of the above, then I can recommend Stuhrling.
http://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-timex-digital-analog-watches?utm_medium=afl&utm_campaign=1225267&utm_source=rvs
Great way to start a collection! I bought the T2N301.
Simple but functional and there is something oddly intriguing about a mechanical movement.
@Basil Nice Seiko! That's a great purchase. Well done sir.
I received in the mail my Bergeon 6767-F spring bar fork tool today and used it to swap bands on my Orient. Totally worth the $25. If you plan on changing bands on your dress watches, this is THE TOOL to have for spring bars and bracelet pins. Highly recommended.
(Apologize for the glare, my phone camera is crap and I had to use a desk lamp for it to even show up properly)
Like that @Ryder?
Also, also, I got one of my pocket watches working. It was just the battery. You will now hear me call out "all aboard" every time we're trying to rally the troops for dinner or whatnot at the next few IC events I attend.
CHOO CHOO
Ashford has the Bulova Men's 'Strap' Stainless Steel Automatic Self-Winding Watch for $138.00 Free Shipping after Coupon Code: "TECHSTRAP138" (Exp 11/9). Tax in NY.
Features a silver-tone stainless steel case, croc-embossed leather strap with adjustable buckle closure, three-hand analog display with automatic movement, and water resistance up to 100m